Some owners and trainers are firm in their belief that playing tug with a dog increases aggression, dominance, bad manners, and encourages a struggle to see who is alpha. It's not a good game for every dog, but tug can be a great game when everyone plays by the rules. When two dogs tug with each other you can tell it's not a power struggle. It's play! Or maybe it's wild canids tugging a huge piece of meat, but even then it's not about dominance. It's a functional technique to break apart large pieces of meat. If your dog does have aggression issues like resource/toy guarding, has poor bite inhibition, or is easily over-excited by tug then it may not be a good game to play. Tug is great to work on impulse control but it's not great when the dog is too overstimulated to show any self control at all. Work on easier games and maybe some day the dog can play tug, but maybe not. Again, it's not a good game for all dogs.
The rules I have for my dogs:
1. The dog must drop the toy when I say "Drop It". The drop cue needs to be practiced before expecting a dog to drop a toy in the middle of an exciting game. Keep the game calm and don't let it escalate while you practice Drop It. Start with easier exercises and toys to teach Drop It before using the tug toy. This video gives a great demo on how to teach a reliable and fast "Drop" including using Drop when playing tug. One thing I've learned is that if you're pulling on the toy it's tougher for the dog to let go. Relax the toy, and move in toward the dog a little if you need to so you can relieve the tension on the toy.
2. The dog's teeth must never touch my hands. In order to accomplish this you must set the dog up to succeed. A short toy being swung around in the dog's face will set the dog up to fail- it will launch itself at the toy and very likely grab your fingers. Instead of waving the toy around, offer it. A little wave back and forth
is ok, as is dragging the toy on the ground. Encourage your dog to take
the toy to begin the game. Don't yank! Yanking and jerking the toy can damage your dog's mouth.
Swinging the toy wildly or shaking it in the
dog's face invites the dog to make an inappropriate grab at it and
could very likely hit your fingers. Use a long tug rope over a foot and a half long, and ideally about 2-3 feet long. You should also hold the rope by one end, and not in the middle. The dog should be hanging on to the other end, not much above the knot. Set the dog up to succeed by keeping your fingers out of the way.
If the dog creeps up the rope or gets close to your fingers, or even touches them, then say "Oops!" or "Ouch!" and stop the game for a moment. The dog is not being "dominant" or "alpha" when its teeth touch your hands during tug. It's most likely just trying to get a better hold on the toy! Saying Oops/Ouch is usually enough of an interruption for the dog to understand that its teeth should not touch your hands. Sometimes that's not enough of a hint. Try dropping the toy as you say Oops/Ouch and turning away. The point is, the game stops if teeth touch hands. If your dog has poor bite inhibition (meaning the dog bites hard instead of using gentle pressure) there are other exercises to start with before playing tug, and if and when you feel your dog is ready for tug you may want to wear gardening gloves for protection as you continue teaching your dog to both inhibit its bite and to not touch its teeth to your hands during tug.
3. The dog must not lunge for the toy when it is on the ground. I often play a fetch/tug combo game with Diesel (who is still here, and being a good boy while he waits for a new foster), and sometimes the toy gets dropped in the middle of tug too. Often the dog picks it up right away but sometimes not. With Diesel, I toss his tug rope and when he brings it back he often drops it automatically, and sometimes he'll prance and invite me to grab it and tug. If he dropped it, he must Sit and Wait while I reach down to pick up the toy and I either toss it again or invite him to tug. If he goes to put his paw on it, gets up, or reaches in with his mouth, I say "Oops!" and stand straight up and put my hands behind my back. I tell him again to Wait, and reposition him if needed. It's too easy for the dog to scratch your hand with a paw or touch teeth to your hand when lunging for the toy. It's also good manners and teaches good impulse control to have the dog wait while you pick the toy up. You may need to walk forward over the toy so it is under/behind you before leaning down, and/or lure the dog back away from the toy for a Sit-Stay at a greater distance. This is not about "claiming" the toy from the dog. It's about making sure your hands stay safe while you pick it up, and it's about teaching good manners and impulse control to the dog.
4. I usually "win" the game, and the dogs win too! This is also not about "dominance" or being the "alpha" to be the one who ends up with the toy. It's not about finally wrestling the toy away from the dog (which should never be the case anyway). It's about me choosing when the game is over so I can then put the toy away and move on to something else. The dog needs to know when the game is over. What if you were playing Monopoly and the person you were playing with got up and walked away, and didn't come back? Pretty confusing! Have an end of game routine. Most often I simply say Drop, which is practiced throughout the game. Then for Diesel I tell him Down, then place the toy between his paws and pet him a little so he can chew on it if he wants to. For Kaytu and Denali I tell them Drop then Sit, then place the toy on the ground beside me and give lots of petting and praise as they won't chew on it. That's winning to me! The dog voluntarily gave up the toy. That's a win. You can add a verbal "All done!" to have an additional indication that the game is over. The dog then gets a reward (chewing the toy/petting) so they win too! There are sometimes exceptions to this, like when the dog chooses to be done playing first. Sometimes I'll toss the rope for Diesel and he'll bring it back but instead of dropping it he'll lay down and start to chew on it, or he'll drop it then walk off. Or we'll be tugging and he'll just stop for whatever reason. That often happens with Kaytu, she'll let go when we're tugging and be done. Fine by me! I tell her she's a good girl, pet her, and then leave her be. Pretty much the only unacceptable way for the game to end is if the dog refuses to drop the toy and rips it out of your hands and runs off. Also unacceptable is if there is any form of guarding or aggression that prevents you from continuing- and you shouldn't play again until those issues are addressed.
5. No uninvited interference from other dogs, and it's my job to make sure. Diesel doesn't care if one of the girls is next to him, he'll smash and crash into them. If I toss the tug toy he'll crash into them when he spins to chase it. They don't like that, and similar things have caused scuffles in the past between him and Kaytu. Any of them will try to interfere when I'm tugging with one. For example if I'm tugging with Diesel, Kaytu will jump on him and mouth his neck, and Denali will mouth his legs. Or one will try to grab part of the rope. It's better to keep the other dogs out of the way, unless you want them to play among themselves. I usually put two behind me in the kitchen while I play tug/fetch with one. Or I'll take one outside and leave the other 2 in, or switch that and put 2 outside and keep 1 in. Lots of options!
6. Not really a rule, but noise is ok as long as the dog is in control. Many dogs growl when tugging. Kaytu really does. Why does she growl? Growling does not always mean aggression, and does not mean she is trying to be "dominant" or be the "alpha" dog. She's playing! Watch the video below. She is growly, and gets VERY growly when I scratch her neck when we tug. At the end I scratch her neck when she doesn't have the rope and she doesn't growl at all. Also notice how when her teeth touch my fingers (about 20 seconds in) she immediately lets go, and there was very little pressure from her teeth. I invited her back to play by saying her name and waving the toy. She did not bite me or hurt me at all. She does not guard the toy when it's on the ground, and allows me to take it. She also allows Diesel to take it. Growling is simply part of her play style!
You can also see how Diesel and Kaytu play together. In this video he invites her to play 6 times:
1. At 0:18
2. At 0:34
3. At 1:04
4. At 1:05
5. At 1:13
6. Best one ever, 1:20-end, where he leaves the toy so he can bounce up and interrupt her attempt to walk away, then goes back for the toy and brings it to her. She's not impressed.
December 29, 2012
December 18, 2012
A Proper Mushing Setup
Finally! My awesome older brother got me a 4 dog line for mushing, and we got Denali a new harness. The green Urban Trail harness slipped to the side too much now that she really pulls. It was perfect for when she didn't pull as an X-back harness will bunch up and not fit right when the dog isn't pulling, but now that she pulls really well she needs a more appropriate harness. She'll probably still wear the green one for hiking and other adventures.
Here is her pretty new harness from Alpine Outfitters.
I worked a couple days on teaching her to put it on herself, as with the green harness she would shy away from it. She'd been having trouble with her paws peeling on runs and was relating the pain back to the harness. I did some counter-conditioning and desensitization with the green harness, and basically followed that same idea with her new harness. I hold it up and she sticks her head through the holes. I'll upload a video of that later. I did get a video of her first run with it, she did great! You might want to turn down your volume a little, the video plays loud.
I need to take her by herself to work on her bad habits at the beginning of our run to the park. She's been consistently trying to jump off the curb and also to turn too early. She's not supposed to jump or turn until told to. She anticipates too much.
I'm really loving the 4 dog line as it lets me run all 3 dogs very well. Yes, we still have the foster dog Diesel, but we're meeting a potential new foster tomorrow. I'll update about Diesel later too. I want the 4 dog line because I've had a couple people wanting me to teach their dogs to mush. I like to have that option to run dogs with Denali and Kaytu. It's so much fun!
Here is her pretty new harness from Alpine Outfitters.
I worked a couple days on teaching her to put it on herself, as with the green harness she would shy away from it. She'd been having trouble with her paws peeling on runs and was relating the pain back to the harness. I did some counter-conditioning and desensitization with the green harness, and basically followed that same idea with her new harness. I hold it up and she sticks her head through the holes. I'll upload a video of that later. I did get a video of her first run with it, she did great! You might want to turn down your volume a little, the video plays loud.
I need to take her by herself to work on her bad habits at the beginning of our run to the park. She's been consistently trying to jump off the curb and also to turn too early. She's not supposed to jump or turn until told to. She anticipates too much.
I'm really loving the 4 dog line as it lets me run all 3 dogs very well. Yes, we still have the foster dog Diesel, but we're meeting a potential new foster tomorrow. I'll update about Diesel later too. I want the 4 dog line because I've had a couple people wanting me to teach their dogs to mush. I like to have that option to run dogs with Denali and Kaytu. It's so much fun!
November 25, 2012
Zebulon's Weight Loss
My oh my. I was looking through old pictures of the cats and came across this one of Zebulon from November 2009, when he was only a year and a half old.
Look at how chubby he was!! One nickname he's had is Pear-Shaped Cat for the way he looks when sitting. At his top weight he was about 16 lbs. Ideal for him is about 10 lbs. He was 6 lbs overweight for his entire adult life. That means about 30% of his weight was excess.
Until this year.
This year, my new year's resolution was to put the cats on a raw diet. The goals were overall improved health, including getting Zeb to lose the extra weight.
After guffawing at the old picture I took this one. November 2012, three years later. He now weighs about 12 lbs. Amazing what losing 4 lbs can do to a cat!
I still hope to have him lose a couple more lbs. He still has a bit of extra. As with humans, excess weight can cause a lot of health issues. Diabetes, joint problems, trouble breathing, more strain on the heart. You can't control genetic predispositions, but you can control diet and weight.
 |
| Click to Enlarge |
Look at how chubby he was!! One nickname he's had is Pear-Shaped Cat for the way he looks when sitting. At his top weight he was about 16 lbs. Ideal for him is about 10 lbs. He was 6 lbs overweight for his entire adult life. That means about 30% of his weight was excess.
Until this year.
This year, my new year's resolution was to put the cats on a raw diet. The goals were overall improved health, including getting Zeb to lose the extra weight.
After guffawing at the old picture I took this one. November 2012, three years later. He now weighs about 12 lbs. Amazing what losing 4 lbs can do to a cat!
 |
| Click to Enlarge |
I still hope to have him lose a couple more lbs. He still has a bit of extra. As with humans, excess weight can cause a lot of health issues. Diabetes, joint problems, trouble breathing, more strain on the heart. You can't control genetic predispositions, but you can control diet and weight.
November 23, 2012
Busy Busy Bee
I've been very busy the last few weeks. My mom had another stroke and I went home to help her for a week (she's doing ok). My in-laws have been here for a week for Thanksgiving, and I was on the news the other day with Diesel to talk about the foster organization for pets of deployed military service members and to try to find a new foster for him.
Diesel did great on the news! I'm going to call the organization tomorrow to see how many applications came in for him. Some friends-of-friends are interested so I'll get those applications bumped to the top of the list to see if they are suitable. You can see Diesel and I on the news on KUSI San Diego's webiste on the GMSD [Good Morning San Diego] tab. The clip will only be up for a few weeks. What you can't see is they were deep frying turkeys about 20 feet away from us.
http://www.kusi.com/video?clipId=7986968
^Watch us on the news!
Diesel did great on the news! I'm going to call the organization tomorrow to see how many applications came in for him. Some friends-of-friends are interested so I'll get those applications bumped to the top of the list to see if they are suitable. You can see Diesel and I on the news on KUSI San Diego's webiste on the GMSD [Good Morning San Diego] tab. The clip will only be up for a few weeks. What you can't see is they were deep frying turkeys about 20 feet away from us.
http://www.kusi.com/video?clipId=7986968
^Watch us on the news!
November 2, 2012
2012 Vaccination Protocol
Near the end of October Dr. Jean Dodds posted new canine vaccination protocols. There are slight changes from what was listed in the Vaccines post earlier this year.
The 2012 protocol is as follows:
To review from the Vaccines post, MLV stands for Modified Live Vaccine.
Modified Live Vaccines (MLV)
Modified-live vaccines contain a weakened strain of the disease causing agent. Weakening of the agent is typically accomplished by chemical means or by genetic engineering. These vaccines replicate within the host, thus increasing the amount of material available for provoking an immune response without inducing clinical illness. This provocation primes the immune system to mount a vigorous response if the disease causing agent is ever introduced to the animal. Further, the immunity provided by a modified-live vaccine develops rather swiftly and since they mimic infection with the actual disease agent, it provides the best immune response.
There are also Inactivated Vaccines, also called Non-infectious Vaccines:
Inactivated Vaccines (Killed)
Inactivated vaccines contain killed disease causing agents. Since the agent is killed, it is much more stable and has a longer shelf life, there is no possibility that they will revert to a virulent form, and they never spread from the vaccinated host to other animals. They are also safe for use in pregnant animals (a developing fetus may be susceptible to damage by some of the disease agents, even though attenuated, present in modified-live vaccines). Although more than a single dose of vaccine is always required and the duration of immunity is generally shorter, inactivated vaccines are regaining importance in this age of retrovirus and herpesvirus infections and concern about the safety of genetically modified microorganisms. Inactivated vaccines available for use in dogs include rabies, canine parvovirus, canine coronavirus, etc.
The following common vaccines are not recommended for most dogs, however you need to consider your dog's lifestyle and if there are specific concerns in your area.
1. Distemper & Parvo @ 6 weeks or younger
*Not recommended.
*At this age, maternal antibodies form the mothers milk (colostrum) will neutralize the vaccine and only 30% for puppies will be protected. 100% will be exposed to the virus at the vet clinic.
2. Corona
*Not recommended.
1.) Disease only affects dogs <6 age.="age." br="br" of="of" weeks="weeks"> 2.) Rare disease: TAMU has seen only one case in seven years.
3.) Mild self-limiting disease.
4.) Efficacy of the vaccine is questionable.
*Leptospirosis
*Not recommended
1) There are an average of 12 cases reported annually in California.
2) Side effects common.
3) Most commonly used vaccine contains the wrong serovars. (There is no cross-protection of serovars) There is a new vaccine with 2 new serovars. Two vaccinations twice per year would be required for protection.).
4) Risk outweighs benefits.
*Lyme
*Not recommended
1) Low risk in California.
2) 85% of cases are in 9 New England states and Wisconsin.
3) Possible side effect of polyarthritis from whole cell bacterin.
*Bordetella (Intranasal) (killed)
*Only recommended 3 days prior to boarding when required.
*Protects against 2 of the possible 8 causes of kennel cough.
*Duration of immunity 6 months.
*Giardia
*Not recommended
*Efficacy of vaccine unsubstantiated by independent studies
The 2012 protocol is as follows:
Dodds’ 2012 Canine Vaccination Protocol
Note: The following vaccine protocol is offered for those dogs where minimal vaccinations are advisable or desirable. The schedule is one I recommend and should not be interpreted to mean that other protocols recommended by a veterinarian would be less satisfactory. It’s a matter of professional judgment and choice.
Canine Vaccination Protocol
9 - 10 Weeks Old:
Distemper + Parvovirus, MLV (e.g. Intervet Progard Puppy DPV, now renamed Nobivac DPV, when Merck and Intervet merged)
14 Weeks Old:
Same as above
16 - 18 Weeks Old (optional):
Same as above (optional)
20 weeks or older, if allowable by law:
Rabies
1 Year Old:
Distemper + Parvovirus, MLV (optional = titer)
1+ Years Old:
Rabies, killed 3-year product (give 3-4 weeks apart from distemper/parvovirus booster)
Perform vaccine antibody titers for distemper and parvovirus every three years thereafter, or more often, if desired. Vaccinate for rabies virus according to the law, except where circumstances indicate that a written waiver needs to be obtained from the primary care veterinarian. In that case, a rabies antibody titer can also be performed to accompany the waiver request. See www.rabieschallengefund.org
To review from the Vaccines post, MLV stands for Modified Live Vaccine.
Modified Live Vaccines (MLV)
Modified-live vaccines contain a weakened strain of the disease causing agent. Weakening of the agent is typically accomplished by chemical means or by genetic engineering. These vaccines replicate within the host, thus increasing the amount of material available for provoking an immune response without inducing clinical illness. This provocation primes the immune system to mount a vigorous response if the disease causing agent is ever introduced to the animal. Further, the immunity provided by a modified-live vaccine develops rather swiftly and since they mimic infection with the actual disease agent, it provides the best immune response.
There are also Inactivated Vaccines, also called Non-infectious Vaccines:
Inactivated Vaccines (Killed)
Inactivated vaccines contain killed disease causing agents. Since the agent is killed, it is much more stable and has a longer shelf life, there is no possibility that they will revert to a virulent form, and they never spread from the vaccinated host to other animals. They are also safe for use in pregnant animals (a developing fetus may be susceptible to damage by some of the disease agents, even though attenuated, present in modified-live vaccines). Although more than a single dose of vaccine is always required and the duration of immunity is generally shorter, inactivated vaccines are regaining importance in this age of retrovirus and herpesvirus infections and concern about the safety of genetically modified microorganisms. Inactivated vaccines available for use in dogs include rabies, canine parvovirus, canine coronavirus, etc.
The following common vaccines are not recommended for most dogs, however you need to consider your dog's lifestyle and if there are specific concerns in your area.
1. Distemper & Parvo @ 6 weeks or younger
*Not recommended.
*At this age, maternal antibodies form the mothers milk (colostrum) will neutralize the vaccine and only 30% for puppies will be protected. 100% will be exposed to the virus at the vet clinic.
2. Corona
*Not recommended.
1.) Disease only affects dogs <6 age.="age." br="br" of="of" weeks="weeks"> 2.) Rare disease: TAMU has seen only one case in seven years.
3.) Mild self-limiting disease.
4.) Efficacy of the vaccine is questionable.
*Leptospirosis
*Not recommended
1) There are an average of 12 cases reported annually in California.
2) Side effects common.
3) Most commonly used vaccine contains the wrong serovars. (There is no cross-protection of serovars) There is a new vaccine with 2 new serovars. Two vaccinations twice per year would be required for protection.).
4) Risk outweighs benefits.
*Lyme
*Not recommended
1) Low risk in California.
2) 85% of cases are in 9 New England states and Wisconsin.
3) Possible side effect of polyarthritis from whole cell bacterin.
*Bordetella (Intranasal) (killed)
*Only recommended 3 days prior to boarding when required.
*Protects against 2 of the possible 8 causes of kennel cough.
*Duration of immunity 6 months.
*Giardia
*Not recommended
*Efficacy of vaccine unsubstantiated by independent studies
October 30, 2012
Toxic to Dogs, Part 1
[Part 2: House Plants & Flowers coming soon]
There are a lot of foods, plants, and other substances that are toxic to dogs. Some cause a little tummy upset and some can kill. It's really important to know what, and how much, of a substance can cause harm or kill your dog. I'll go over tobacco and caffeine but I'm skipping the obvious substances like bleach, antifreeze, medications, drugs, and alcohol. As you would with toddlers and children, always keep chemicals and substances like that out of reach of your pets. Only give them approved and acceptable medications. Many medications people use are fine for pets such as children's Benadryl and Imodium in appropriate doses. Plastic bottles containing chemicals can be super fun to chew on and some owners let their dogs chew plastic water bottles, which is not something I'm personally a fan of as sharp bits of plastic are easily swallowed and sharp edges can cut their tongue and gums. Some dogs figure out how to open cabinets under the sink that contain cleaning or beauty products or medications that could make them very sick or kill them. If you have an exceptionally curious and nosy dog then consider putting child locks on your cabinets or other areas your dog breaks into that contain dangerous chemicals. Or put the chemicals somewhere else. Manage your environment as needed to prevent any accidents.
Listed under each substance is the effect of the substance, why it causes a reaction, and the typical amount of the substance needed to cause a reaction. The list is alphabetical. If you're looking for something specific hit Ctrl+F on your keyboard (the Find feature) and type in the name of the substance.
The first items are grouped as all sources contain amgydalin (Vitamin B17) which is a cyanide compound.
Please feel free to copy any/all parts to share.
Food, Plants, and Other Substances Toxic to Dogs
Apple (crabapple), alfalfa, apricot, bamboo, beans (fava, garbanzo, lentils, lima, mung), berries (boysenberry, currant, elderberry, gooseberry, huckleberry, loganberry, mulberry, quince, raspberry), buckwheat, cassava, cherry (chokecherry, cherry laurel, pincherry, wild black cherry, etc), cranberry (Swedish/Lignon), elderberry, eucalyptus, flax, nectarine, millet, peach, pear, persimmon, plum, prune, squash, wild blackberry (domestic is ok): Pits, leaves, and other parts of the plant.
Effect: Rapid or difficulty breathing, swollen and irritated mouth and gums, tachycardia, dilated pupils, inadequate oxygen levels, shock, coma, seizures, and death.
Because: Cyanogenic Glycosides called amgydalin (Vitamin B17) which is a cyanide compound. Cyanide inhibits cytochrome oxidase, an enzyme necessary for cellular oxygen transport, preventing appropriate oxygen uptake by cells.All sources listed have medium to high levels.
Dose to cause reaction: Varies by fruit. Some fruits are higher in amygdalin than others. In general it takes large quantities of seeds and most seeds have a hard shell preventing the amygdalin inside to be absorbed. It can take hundreds of seeds of one type of fruit, but only a few pits from another type. Death can occur within 3-4 days. Please see this page for more information about foods containing cyanide, and there are more helpful links at the bottom of that page as well.
Almond, macademia nuts: Contains cyanide, see above.
Avocado: The fruit, pit, and plant itself.
Effect: Difficulty breathing, fluid in chest and around heart. In lactating animals, mastitis occurs within 24 hr of exposure to avocado, accompanied by a 75% decrease in milk production.
Because: Persin, a fatty acid derivative. The Guatemalan variety appears to be the most problematic.
Dose to cause reaction: Purified persin at 60-100 mg/kg causes mastitis in lactating mice and doses >100 mg/kg result in myocardial necrosis. Goats develop severe mastitis when ingesting 20 g of leaves/kg, whereas 30 g of leaves/kg results in cardiac injury. Acute cardiac failure developed in sheep fed avocado leaves at 25 g/kg for 5 days; 5.5 g/kg of leaves fed for 21 days or 2.5 g/kg for 32 days caused chronic cardiac insufficiency. Budgerigars fed 1 g of avocado fruit developed agitation and feather pulling, while 8.7 g of mashed avocado fruit resulted in death within 48 hr.
Broccoli: Florets and stems. Broccoli is NOT technically toxic to dogs.
Effect: Causes severe gastrointestinal irritation resulting in bad gas.
Because: Isothiocyanate causes the irritation.
Dose to cause reaction: Great than 5% of dog's diet.
Caffeine (Coffee, Tea, Caffeinated or Sugary Drinks (Soda), Certain Medications): The higher the caffeine, the worse it is.
Effect: Similar to the effects of chocolate (see below).
Because: Caffeine is a chemical stimulant that dogs are unable to metabolize effectively. As a result, it is very damaging to the dog's central nervous system.
Dose to cause reaction: As a guideline, the lethal dose is considered to be around 70 mg per 1 lb body weight (150 mg / kg body weight). Instant coffee contains over 60 mg caffeine per teaspoon. The lethal dose of caffeine for a 15 lb dog would be 17 teaspoons of instant coffee. Stronger coffees such as Turkish coffee, percolated coffees, and energy drinks would take much less to become toxic.
Chocolate: The darker the chocolate, the worse it is. Baker's chocolate is most dangerous form, however pure cocoa is extremely deadly as only 3oz can kill a 50 lb dog and only 1oz is needed to kill a 17 lb dog.
Effect: Seizures, coma, hyperactivity, tachycardia, heart attack, tremors, death. Early signs of include nausea and vomiting, restlessness, diarrhea, muscle tremors, and increased urination or incontinence.
Because: Theobromine, which is similar to caffeine (see Caffeine abpve).
Dose to cause reaction: Please see The Chocolate Chart provided by National Geographic. This chart allows you to see how much of certain types of chocolate may harm a pet of a certain weight.
Grapes, Raisins: Any type of grape or raisin, both with and without seeds and including winery grapes.
Effect: Kidney failure within 1-3 days including dehydration, abdominal pain, and tremors or seizures. After consumption there may be severe vomiting and diarrhea, excessive thirst and urination, lethargy, weakness, decreased appetite.
Because: Unknown, possibly a mycotoxin (substance produced by fungus or mold).
Dose to cause reaction: 9 oz to 2 lbs of grapes and raisins (between .041 and 1.1 oz/kg of body weight). According to the Merck Veterinary Manual, the estimated toxic dose of grapes is 32 grams of grapes per kilogram of body weight (0.5 ounces per pound) and for raisins it is 11-30 g/kg (0.18 to 0.48 oz/lb).
Milk: Milk-based dairy products. These are NOT technically toxic to dogs.
Effect: Diarrhea, vomiting, gas.
Because: Lactose. Dogs do not possess significant amounts of lactase (the enzyme that breaks down lactose in milk). After weaning, the level of lactase activity falls to about 10% of its peak activity. Cow and goat milk contains 4.5% to 5% lactose, compared to 3.1% in dog’s milk and 4.2% in cat’s milk. The high level of lactose in cow's milk can overpower a dog or cat's ability to digest it.
Dose to cause reaction: Varies by dog and by product.
-Ice cream has 12g per cup
-Whole milk and skim milk have 11g per cup
-Sour cream has 8g per cup
-Cottage cheese has 6g per cup
-Yogurt has 5g per cup
-American and Swiss cheese have 1g per oz; cheddar cheese has less than 1g per oz.
Mushrooms: Entire plant; not all are toxic. Most common toxic mushrooms are Inocybe spp. and Clitocybe spp. The death cap (Amanita phalloides) is most severe.
Effect: Acute gastric effects, liver and kidney damage leading to jaundice and bleeding disorders, abdominal pain and colic-like symptoms, nausea, salivation and teary eyes, vomiting, small constricted pupils, lethargy, depression. Also hallucinogenic syndrome: Mushrooms that cause this syndrome are known as magic mushrooms, blue legs or liberty caps. Dogs who are hallucinating frequently snap at invisible flies, may be extremely depressed, stagger when walking and become comatose. Muscle tremors and seizures also occur. Dogs who ingest hallucinogenic mushrooms always require rapid decontamination and monitoring by a veterinarian.
Because: Various. Refer to this toxicology brief, "Mushroom poisoning in dogs."
Dose to cause reaction: Varies by mushroom. It is advised to induce vomiting with activated charcoal or hydrogen peroxide. The appropriate dose of hydrogen peroxide is one teaspoon (5 cc or 5mL) per 10 pounds of body weight. Use 3% hydrogen peroxide, not the stronger type used for hair coloring.
Nutmeg: The spice is derived from the seed of a tree. Unknown if tree itself causes reaction but the spice does.
Effect: Tremors, seizures, death, vomiting, abdominal pain, irregular heartbeat. Initial symptoms of arousal often followed by dramatic drowsiness. Hallucinations and delusions possible.
Because: Nutmeg contains myristicin, a compound also found in parsley and dill, which acts to weakly inhibit an enzyme called monoamine oxidase that helps to break down certain brain neurotransmitters. Myristicin can cause personality changes and delusions both directly and through its effects on monoamine oxidase.
Dose to cause reaction: Unknown. Take into account your dog's size and weight. Just two tablespoons can cause a reaction in a human.
Onion (allium): Leeks, chives, garlic, shallots, scallions, and onions. All 95 species in North America can be toxic to cats and dogs. Reaction can be caused from the plant material, juice, fresh or aged dietary supplements, powdered cooking preparations, and dehydrated material. May be present in baby food.
Effect: Symptoms often develop over several days and may include depression, jaundice, rapid breathing, tachycardia, anemia, weakness, exercise intolerance, cold sensitivity, decreased appetite, abdominal pain, and diarrhea. Red blood cells are destroyed.
Because: Wide variety of organosulfoxides, particularly alk(en)ylcysteine sulfoxides. See this article for a very science-y description.
Dose to cause reaction: As little as 5 g/kg of onions in cats or 15 to 30 g/kg in dogs. Dogs and cats are highly susceptible to onion toxicosis. Toxicosis is consistently noted in animals that ingest more than 0.5% of their body weight in onions at one time. Dogs with heritable high erythrocyte reduced glutathione and potassium concentrations are more susceptible to the hematologic effects of onions. This trait is relatively common in Japanese breeds. Garlic in small amounts may be beneficial.
Rhubarb: Leaves only.
Effects: Excessive salivation, vomiting, nausea, difficulty breathing, burning throat and mouth, stomach pain, diarrhea, seizures and convulsions, kidney damage including kidney stones, stumbling.
Because: Oxalates. Too much oxalic acid in the urine will result in kidney or bladder stones.
Dose to cause reaction: In rats, 375 mg oxalic acid per kg to cause death. It will only require a fraction of that to cause sickness. Rhubarb leaves are about 0.5% oxalic acid.
Beet tops, cabbage, and spinach leaves also contain oxalates, as do potatoes and peas.
Salt: Sodium chloride. Other than table salt, keep in mind other sources such as play dough, rock salt, and paint balls.
Effect: Vomiting, diarrhea,decreased appetite, lethargy, stumbling, abnormal fluid accumulation within the body, excessive thirst or urination, kidney damage, tremors, seizures, brain swelling, coma, elevated temperature, death.
Because: Sodium ion poisoning caused by the dog being unable to process the salt fast enough.
Dose to cause reaction: About 1 tsp per kg (per 2.2 lbs) body weight. Dose of 2-3g of sodium chloride per kg causes toxicosis. 4g/kg is lethal. (Conversion ratio: 1oz = 28.35g).
-One gram of table salt has 400mg of sodium and 600mg chloride
-One teaspoon of table salt contains over 2,000mg (2g) sodium and 3,000mg (3g) chloride.
Tobacco (Nicotine): Chewing tobacco, dipping tobacco (cut, snuff, pouches), cigars (blunts, cigarillos), cigarettes (kreteks), creamy snuff, dokha, gutka, snuff, snus, topical paste, gum and patches, water, pesticide.
Effect: Tremors,weakness, stumbling, depression, hyperactivity, lethargy, irregular or difficulty breathing, salivation, dilated pupils, vomiting, diarrhea, seizures, irregular heart beat or bradycardia or tachycardia.
Because: Nicotine, a poisonous alkaloid derived from the tobacco plant.
Dose to cause reaction: 5mg of nicotine per pound of body weight. In dogs, 10 mg/kg is potentially lethal. In other words, a 10-pound dog would only need to eat about 3 cigarettes in order to show toxic signs. See below:
-One cigarette contains 15 to 25mg of nicotine depending on the brand
--The butt of a cigarette can contain from 4 to 8mg depending on the length of the butt and the content of the original cigarette
-Nicotine patches contain between 8 to 11mg
-Nicotine gum contains approximately 2 to 4mg per piece
-Inhalers contain about 4 mg per puff or 10 mg per cartridge
-Nasal sprays contain approximately 80 to 100mg per bottle or 0.5mg per spray
-A cigar contains approximately 15 to 40mg
-Chewing tobacco contains approximately 6 to 8 mg per gram
-Snuff contains approximately 12 to 17 mg per gram
Yeast dough:
Effect: Drooling, lethargy, stumbling, nausea, vomiting, weakness, lowered body temperature, bloat, death.
Because: Expands and produces gas in the digestive system causing abdominal pain and possible obstruction or rupture of the stomach or intestine, can ferment sugars creating a secondary problem of ethanol (alcohol) poisoning.
Dose to cause reaction: A pingpong sized ball can easily kill a cat or small dog.
Xylitol (artificial sweetener): Sugar-free gum, toothpaste, mouthwash.
Effect: Causes very low blood sugar (hypoglycemia), which can result in vomiting, weakness, collapse, death. In high doses can cause liver failure.
Because: Causes the rapid release of insulin.
Dose to cause reaction: One stick of gum can severely harm a 20 lb dog.
There are a lot of foods, plants, and other substances that are toxic to dogs. Some cause a little tummy upset and some can kill. It's really important to know what, and how much, of a substance can cause harm or kill your dog. I'll go over tobacco and caffeine but I'm skipping the obvious substances like bleach, antifreeze, medications, drugs, and alcohol. As you would with toddlers and children, always keep chemicals and substances like that out of reach of your pets. Only give them approved and acceptable medications. Many medications people use are fine for pets such as children's Benadryl and Imodium in appropriate doses. Plastic bottles containing chemicals can be super fun to chew on and some owners let their dogs chew plastic water bottles, which is not something I'm personally a fan of as sharp bits of plastic are easily swallowed and sharp edges can cut their tongue and gums. Some dogs figure out how to open cabinets under the sink that contain cleaning or beauty products or medications that could make them very sick or kill them. If you have an exceptionally curious and nosy dog then consider putting child locks on your cabinets or other areas your dog breaks into that contain dangerous chemicals. Or put the chemicals somewhere else. Manage your environment as needed to prevent any accidents.
Listed under each substance is the effect of the substance, why it causes a reaction, and the typical amount of the substance needed to cause a reaction. The list is alphabetical. If you're looking for something specific hit Ctrl+F on your keyboard (the Find feature) and type in the name of the substance.
The first items are grouped as all sources contain amgydalin (Vitamin B17) which is a cyanide compound.
Please feel free to copy any/all parts to share.
Food, Plants, and Other Substances Toxic to Dogs
Apple (crabapple), alfalfa, apricot, bamboo, beans (fava, garbanzo, lentils, lima, mung), berries (boysenberry, currant, elderberry, gooseberry, huckleberry, loganberry, mulberry, quince, raspberry), buckwheat, cassava, cherry (chokecherry, cherry laurel, pincherry, wild black cherry, etc), cranberry (Swedish/Lignon), elderberry, eucalyptus, flax, nectarine, millet, peach, pear, persimmon, plum, prune, squash, wild blackberry (domestic is ok): Pits, leaves, and other parts of the plant.
Effect: Rapid or difficulty breathing, swollen and irritated mouth and gums, tachycardia, dilated pupils, inadequate oxygen levels, shock, coma, seizures, and death.
Because: Cyanogenic Glycosides called amgydalin (Vitamin B17) which is a cyanide compound. Cyanide inhibits cytochrome oxidase, an enzyme necessary for cellular oxygen transport, preventing appropriate oxygen uptake by cells.All sources listed have medium to high levels.
Dose to cause reaction: Varies by fruit. Some fruits are higher in amygdalin than others. In general it takes large quantities of seeds and most seeds have a hard shell preventing the amygdalin inside to be absorbed. It can take hundreds of seeds of one type of fruit, but only a few pits from another type. Death can occur within 3-4 days. Please see this page for more information about foods containing cyanide, and there are more helpful links at the bottom of that page as well.
Almond, macademia nuts: Contains cyanide, see above.
Avocado: The fruit, pit, and plant itself.
Effect: Difficulty breathing, fluid in chest and around heart. In lactating animals, mastitis occurs within 24 hr of exposure to avocado, accompanied by a 75% decrease in milk production.
Because: Persin, a fatty acid derivative. The Guatemalan variety appears to be the most problematic.
Dose to cause reaction: Purified persin at 60-100 mg/kg causes mastitis in lactating mice and doses >100 mg/kg result in myocardial necrosis. Goats develop severe mastitis when ingesting 20 g of leaves/kg, whereas 30 g of leaves/kg results in cardiac injury. Acute cardiac failure developed in sheep fed avocado leaves at 25 g/kg for 5 days; 5.5 g/kg of leaves fed for 21 days or 2.5 g/kg for 32 days caused chronic cardiac insufficiency. Budgerigars fed 1 g of avocado fruit developed agitation and feather pulling, while 8.7 g of mashed avocado fruit resulted in death within 48 hr.
Broccoli: Florets and stems. Broccoli is NOT technically toxic to dogs.
Effect: Causes severe gastrointestinal irritation resulting in bad gas.
Because: Isothiocyanate causes the irritation.
Dose to cause reaction: Great than 5% of dog's diet.
Caffeine (Coffee, Tea, Caffeinated or Sugary Drinks (Soda), Certain Medications): The higher the caffeine, the worse it is.
Effect: Similar to the effects of chocolate (see below).
Because: Caffeine is a chemical stimulant that dogs are unable to metabolize effectively. As a result, it is very damaging to the dog's central nervous system.
Dose to cause reaction: As a guideline, the lethal dose is considered to be around 70 mg per 1 lb body weight (150 mg / kg body weight). Instant coffee contains over 60 mg caffeine per teaspoon. The lethal dose of caffeine for a 15 lb dog would be 17 teaspoons of instant coffee. Stronger coffees such as Turkish coffee, percolated coffees, and energy drinks would take much less to become toxic.
Chocolate: The darker the chocolate, the worse it is. Baker's chocolate is most dangerous form, however pure cocoa is extremely deadly as only 3oz can kill a 50 lb dog and only 1oz is needed to kill a 17 lb dog.
Effect: Seizures, coma, hyperactivity, tachycardia, heart attack, tremors, death. Early signs of include nausea and vomiting, restlessness, diarrhea, muscle tremors, and increased urination or incontinence.
Because: Theobromine, which is similar to caffeine (see Caffeine abpve).
Dose to cause reaction: Please see The Chocolate Chart provided by National Geographic. This chart allows you to see how much of certain types of chocolate may harm a pet of a certain weight.
Grapes, Raisins: Any type of grape or raisin, both with and without seeds and including winery grapes.
Effect: Kidney failure within 1-3 days including dehydration, abdominal pain, and tremors or seizures. After consumption there may be severe vomiting and diarrhea, excessive thirst and urination, lethargy, weakness, decreased appetite.
Because: Unknown, possibly a mycotoxin (substance produced by fungus or mold).
Dose to cause reaction: 9 oz to 2 lbs of grapes and raisins (between .041 and 1.1 oz/kg of body weight). According to the Merck Veterinary Manual, the estimated toxic dose of grapes is 32 grams of grapes per kilogram of body weight (0.5 ounces per pound) and for raisins it is 11-30 g/kg (0.18 to 0.48 oz/lb).
Milk: Milk-based dairy products. These are NOT technically toxic to dogs.
Effect: Diarrhea, vomiting, gas.
Because: Lactose. Dogs do not possess significant amounts of lactase (the enzyme that breaks down lactose in milk). After weaning, the level of lactase activity falls to about 10% of its peak activity. Cow and goat milk contains 4.5% to 5% lactose, compared to 3.1% in dog’s milk and 4.2% in cat’s milk. The high level of lactose in cow's milk can overpower a dog or cat's ability to digest it.
Dose to cause reaction: Varies by dog and by product.
-Ice cream has 12g per cup
-Whole milk and skim milk have 11g per cup
-Sour cream has 8g per cup
-Cottage cheese has 6g per cup
-Yogurt has 5g per cup
-American and Swiss cheese have 1g per oz; cheddar cheese has less than 1g per oz.
Mushrooms: Entire plant; not all are toxic. Most common toxic mushrooms are Inocybe spp. and Clitocybe spp. The death cap (Amanita phalloides) is most severe.
Effect: Acute gastric effects, liver and kidney damage leading to jaundice and bleeding disorders, abdominal pain and colic-like symptoms, nausea, salivation and teary eyes, vomiting, small constricted pupils, lethargy, depression. Also hallucinogenic syndrome: Mushrooms that cause this syndrome are known as magic mushrooms, blue legs or liberty caps. Dogs who are hallucinating frequently snap at invisible flies, may be extremely depressed, stagger when walking and become comatose. Muscle tremors and seizures also occur. Dogs who ingest hallucinogenic mushrooms always require rapid decontamination and monitoring by a veterinarian.
Because: Various. Refer to this toxicology brief, "Mushroom poisoning in dogs."
Dose to cause reaction: Varies by mushroom. It is advised to induce vomiting with activated charcoal or hydrogen peroxide. The appropriate dose of hydrogen peroxide is one teaspoon (5 cc or 5mL) per 10 pounds of body weight. Use 3% hydrogen peroxide, not the stronger type used for hair coloring.
Nutmeg: The spice is derived from the seed of a tree. Unknown if tree itself causes reaction but the spice does.
Effect: Tremors, seizures, death, vomiting, abdominal pain, irregular heartbeat. Initial symptoms of arousal often followed by dramatic drowsiness. Hallucinations and delusions possible.
Because: Nutmeg contains myristicin, a compound also found in parsley and dill, which acts to weakly inhibit an enzyme called monoamine oxidase that helps to break down certain brain neurotransmitters. Myristicin can cause personality changes and delusions both directly and through its effects on monoamine oxidase.
Dose to cause reaction: Unknown. Take into account your dog's size and weight. Just two tablespoons can cause a reaction in a human.
Onion (allium): Leeks, chives, garlic, shallots, scallions, and onions. All 95 species in North America can be toxic to cats and dogs. Reaction can be caused from the plant material, juice, fresh or aged dietary supplements, powdered cooking preparations, and dehydrated material. May be present in baby food.
Effect: Symptoms often develop over several days and may include depression, jaundice, rapid breathing, tachycardia, anemia, weakness, exercise intolerance, cold sensitivity, decreased appetite, abdominal pain, and diarrhea. Red blood cells are destroyed.
Because: Wide variety of organosulfoxides, particularly alk(en)ylcysteine sulfoxides. See this article for a very science-y description.
Dose to cause reaction: As little as 5 g/kg of onions in cats or 15 to 30 g/kg in dogs. Dogs and cats are highly susceptible to onion toxicosis. Toxicosis is consistently noted in animals that ingest more than 0.5% of their body weight in onions at one time. Dogs with heritable high erythrocyte reduced glutathione and potassium concentrations are more susceptible to the hematologic effects of onions. This trait is relatively common in Japanese breeds. Garlic in small amounts may be beneficial.
Rhubarb: Leaves only.
Effects: Excessive salivation, vomiting, nausea, difficulty breathing, burning throat and mouth, stomach pain, diarrhea, seizures and convulsions, kidney damage including kidney stones, stumbling.
Because: Oxalates. Too much oxalic acid in the urine will result in kidney or bladder stones.
Dose to cause reaction: In rats, 375 mg oxalic acid per kg to cause death. It will only require a fraction of that to cause sickness. Rhubarb leaves are about 0.5% oxalic acid.
Beet tops, cabbage, and spinach leaves also contain oxalates, as do potatoes and peas.
Salt: Sodium chloride. Other than table salt, keep in mind other sources such as play dough, rock salt, and paint balls.
Effect: Vomiting, diarrhea,decreased appetite, lethargy, stumbling, abnormal fluid accumulation within the body, excessive thirst or urination, kidney damage, tremors, seizures, brain swelling, coma, elevated temperature, death.
Because: Sodium ion poisoning caused by the dog being unable to process the salt fast enough.
Dose to cause reaction: About 1 tsp per kg (per 2.2 lbs) body weight. Dose of 2-3g of sodium chloride per kg causes toxicosis. 4g/kg is lethal. (Conversion ratio: 1oz = 28.35g).
-One gram of table salt has 400mg of sodium and 600mg chloride
-One teaspoon of table salt contains over 2,000mg (2g) sodium and 3,000mg (3g) chloride.
Tobacco (Nicotine): Chewing tobacco, dipping tobacco (cut, snuff, pouches), cigars (blunts, cigarillos), cigarettes (kreteks), creamy snuff, dokha, gutka, snuff, snus, topical paste, gum and patches, water, pesticide.
Effect: Tremors,weakness, stumbling, depression, hyperactivity, lethargy, irregular or difficulty breathing, salivation, dilated pupils, vomiting, diarrhea, seizures, irregular heart beat or bradycardia or tachycardia.
Because: Nicotine, a poisonous alkaloid derived from the tobacco plant.
Dose to cause reaction: 5mg of nicotine per pound of body weight. In dogs, 10 mg/kg is potentially lethal. In other words, a 10-pound dog would only need to eat about 3 cigarettes in order to show toxic signs. See below:
-One cigarette contains 15 to 25mg of nicotine depending on the brand
--The butt of a cigarette can contain from 4 to 8mg depending on the length of the butt and the content of the original cigarette
-Nicotine patches contain between 8 to 11mg
-Nicotine gum contains approximately 2 to 4mg per piece
-Inhalers contain about 4 mg per puff or 10 mg per cartridge
-Nasal sprays contain approximately 80 to 100mg per bottle or 0.5mg per spray
-A cigar contains approximately 15 to 40mg
-Chewing tobacco contains approximately 6 to 8 mg per gram
-Snuff contains approximately 12 to 17 mg per gram
Yeast dough:
Effect: Drooling, lethargy, stumbling, nausea, vomiting, weakness, lowered body temperature, bloat, death.
Because: Expands and produces gas in the digestive system causing abdominal pain and possible obstruction or rupture of the stomach or intestine, can ferment sugars creating a secondary problem of ethanol (alcohol) poisoning.
Dose to cause reaction: A pingpong sized ball can easily kill a cat or small dog.
Xylitol (artificial sweetener): Sugar-free gum, toothpaste, mouthwash.
Effect: Causes very low blood sugar (hypoglycemia), which can result in vomiting, weakness, collapse, death. In high doses can cause liver failure.
Because: Causes the rapid release of insulin.
Dose to cause reaction: One stick of gum can severely harm a 20 lb dog.
October 22, 2012
Blood Levels of Raw Fed Dogs
Many weeks ago I came across this. It claims there should be different "normal" blood levels for dogs depending on if they are fed raw or a processed food.
This was bothering me for a while when I mentioned it to my friend (check out her blog about her village dog in Africa). She casually mentioned it would be interesting to see what the levels were in wolves. Of course!! The idea of raw feeding is to feed as wild canids would eat, so why not see what their levels are? I started looking online and came across the book "Wolves: Behavior, Ecology, and Conservation" by L. David Mech. The following image is from page 215.
I checked several sources online to find normal dog levels and compared. Guess what? The levels from these wolves, which are wild and eating a raw diet, fall within the normal dog range. Wolves and dogs are different animals but they are close enough. This is not apples and oranges. This is the gray wolf, canis lupus, and the domesticated dog, canis lupus familiaris. The wolf levels fell within normal dog ranges in all but 3 categories where the wolves were ever so slightly above the normal dog range. (Mean Corpuscular Hemoglobin, Mean Corpuscular Hemoglobin Concentration, and Band neutrophils).
That wolf chart did not include BUN or creatinine, two of the three levels mentioned in the raw feeding study. So once again, let's dig. I pulled this up, the wild wolf levels are outlined in the red box; the normal dog levels are on the right. This is a study apparently done by Champion pet foods so I'm not sure if there could be underlying bias or anything. Just something to keep in mind.
Wolves seem to fall within the normal range, but have a big range when it comes to their BUN and BUN/creatinine ratios. Perhaps due to whatever meal they just ate, or if they haven't eaten recently?
Bottom line I'm getting is that a healthy rawfed dog should not be outside of normal levels and should not have a different standard than dogs fed a processed food. We can assume these wolves are eating a natural diet, as we try to mimic by feeding a raw diet. Therefore, since the wolves fall within normal ranges (which are the ranges for dogs fed a processed diet), so should raw fed dogs.
I was curious to see how my own dogs were doing. We went to the vet last week. Kaytu has never been to the vet since I've had her and we adopted her just over a year ago. Never a reason to go! I do want to make sure the raw diet is working well and there are no signs of underlying problems so now that Kaytu has been raw fed for a year, and Denali for 2 years, I thought it was time to have some tests done. I took them in for blood tests, fecal test, and also did parvo and distemper titer testing.
Note that we walked to the vet, which was 1.3 miles. The dogs had eaten about 1:00am right before we went to bed in attempt to give them full bellies and make some poop for a stool sample in the morning (which they didn't poop anyway of course) and the appointment was at 9:30am. It's commonly recommended to fast the dog for 12 hours before blood tests or thyroid testing, which I didn't know until looking for more information this afternoon. Oh well, now I know! If only vets would tell us these things.
Kaytu first. There are two tests.
First, feel free to laugh at the comment saying Science Diet is a high quality food. We sure did. He is right though that raw meat alone is not a balanced diet. There has to be organ and bone too!
On the first test, the BUN/Creatinine ratio is slightly high. Her ratio is 32, and normal is 4-27. The ratio can be high if the dog has eaten within 12 hours of blood being drawn, which she had.
On the second one, Neutrophils are a bit low. Her level is 49, and normal is 60-77. According to this site, these are the primary white blood cells responsible for fighting infections. High levels of neutrophils indicate infection. Low levels can indicate sepsis, an illness in which the body has a severe response to bacteria or other germs. Her level of 49 is not low enough to be concerned. Read more about neutrophils here.
Her Lymphocytes are barely high at 36, with normal being 12-30. These white blood cells are also responsible for fighting infection and also develop antibodies to protect the body against future attacks. High levels of lymphocytes can indicate infection, viral disease or certain cancers. Again, 36 is not high enough for concern. Read more about lymphocytes here.
Denali's turn! Same two tests.
Her first test was all normal. On the second, she also had low neutrophils (50) and high lymphocytes (38) which are very similar to Kaytu's levels of 49 and 36 respectively.
Denali also had low Monocytes at 2, with normal being 3-10. This doesn't really seem to mean anything. This white blood cell helps the neutrophils fight infections. High monocyte counts indicate infection. It is unlikely that there will be no monocytes and a differential with zero monocytes does not indicate any specific ailment. Read more here.
Both had normal sodium levels, fecal tests were negative which is good and means they did not see any parasites or other nasties, and both dogs had titer levels greater than 1:5 indicating immune response to vaccines (meaning they don't need boosters).
Healthy dogs!
It is commonly thought that a different set of “normal” values should be developed for raw fed dogs. These slightly higher blood values are to be expected simply because these indicators are a measure of protein breakdown/metabolism and raw fed dogs receive a higher percentage of readily digestible and balanced animal protein in their diets. It may be valuable for your pet to have successive laboratory results from previous years in order to determine what is normal for your dog.This claim is based on a study of 200 dogs fed a raw diet and points out 3 differences. Hematocrit, BUN, and creatinine. Unfortunately the link to the study itself doesn't work anymore and I can't seem to find it elsewhere. But something seemed wrong to me. Why would there be a difference in these 3 levels? Normal is normal for a reason, right? If the dog has eaten recently then it could cause elevated or reduced levels for a short time I suppose but to have a different normal level didn't make sense to me. I was doubting that there should be a difference, but thought maybe I just didn't know enough about it (which is true as well, I knew nothing at all about blood levels before I started looking into this). For example hematocrit basically, from my understanding, measures the volume of red blood cells and thereby the viscosity of the blood. Higher hematocrit = thicker blood = harder on the dog's heart as it has to work harder to pump thicker blood. So if it's higher in raw fed dogs, is that really ok? I dug around online and found a forum and where owners had been posting the blood level reports from their raw fed dogs. Despite the findings in the study raw fed dogs were falling within normal ranges or barely outside them in some cases, which is still ok. Kibble fed dogs can fall just outside normal ranges too.
This was bothering me for a while when I mentioned it to my friend (check out her blog about her village dog in Africa). She casually mentioned it would be interesting to see what the levels were in wolves. Of course!! The idea of raw feeding is to feed as wild canids would eat, so why not see what their levels are? I started looking online and came across the book "Wolves: Behavior, Ecology, and Conservation" by L. David Mech. The following image is from page 215.
 |
| Click to enlarge |
I checked several sources online to find normal dog levels and compared. Guess what? The levels from these wolves, which are wild and eating a raw diet, fall within the normal dog range. Wolves and dogs are different animals but they are close enough. This is not apples and oranges. This is the gray wolf, canis lupus, and the domesticated dog, canis lupus familiaris. The wolf levels fell within normal dog ranges in all but 3 categories where the wolves were ever so slightly above the normal dog range. (Mean Corpuscular Hemoglobin, Mean Corpuscular Hemoglobin Concentration, and Band neutrophils).
That wolf chart did not include BUN or creatinine, two of the three levels mentioned in the raw feeding study. So once again, let's dig. I pulled this up, the wild wolf levels are outlined in the red box; the normal dog levels are on the right. This is a study apparently done by Champion pet foods so I'm not sure if there could be underlying bias or anything. Just something to keep in mind.
 |
| Click to enlarge |
Wolves seem to fall within the normal range, but have a big range when it comes to their BUN and BUN/creatinine ratios. Perhaps due to whatever meal they just ate, or if they haven't eaten recently?
Bottom line I'm getting is that a healthy rawfed dog should not be outside of normal levels and should not have a different standard than dogs fed a processed food. We can assume these wolves are eating a natural diet, as we try to mimic by feeding a raw diet. Therefore, since the wolves fall within normal ranges (which are the ranges for dogs fed a processed diet), so should raw fed dogs.
I was curious to see how my own dogs were doing. We went to the vet last week. Kaytu has never been to the vet since I've had her and we adopted her just over a year ago. Never a reason to go! I do want to make sure the raw diet is working well and there are no signs of underlying problems so now that Kaytu has been raw fed for a year, and Denali for 2 years, I thought it was time to have some tests done. I took them in for blood tests, fecal test, and also did parvo and distemper titer testing.
Note that we walked to the vet, which was 1.3 miles. The dogs had eaten about 1:00am right before we went to bed in attempt to give them full bellies and make some poop for a stool sample in the morning (which they didn't poop anyway of course) and the appointment was at 9:30am. It's commonly recommended to fast the dog for 12 hours before blood tests or thyroid testing, which I didn't know until looking for more information this afternoon. Oh well, now I know! If only vets would tell us these things.
Kaytu first. There are two tests.
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| Click to enlarge |
 | |
|
On the first test, the BUN/Creatinine ratio is slightly high. Her ratio is 32, and normal is 4-27. The ratio can be high if the dog has eaten within 12 hours of blood being drawn, which she had.
On the second one, Neutrophils are a bit low. Her level is 49, and normal is 60-77. According to this site, these are the primary white blood cells responsible for fighting infections. High levels of neutrophils indicate infection. Low levels can indicate sepsis, an illness in which the body has a severe response to bacteria or other germs. Her level of 49 is not low enough to be concerned. Read more about neutrophils here.
Her Lymphocytes are barely high at 36, with normal being 12-30. These white blood cells are also responsible for fighting infection and also develop antibodies to protect the body against future attacks. High levels of lymphocytes can indicate infection, viral disease or certain cancers. Again, 36 is not high enough for concern. Read more about lymphocytes here.
Denali's turn! Same two tests.
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| Click to enlarge |
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| Click to enlarge |
Denali also had low Monocytes at 2, with normal being 3-10. This doesn't really seem to mean anything. This white blood cell helps the neutrophils fight infections. High monocyte counts indicate infection. It is unlikely that there will be no monocytes and a differential with zero monocytes does not indicate any specific ailment. Read more here.
Both had normal sodium levels, fecal tests were negative which is good and means they did not see any parasites or other nasties, and both dogs had titer levels greater than 1:5 indicating immune response to vaccines (meaning they don't need boosters).
Healthy dogs!
October 21, 2012
Is That A Wolf?!
One of the first things that draws your eyes to a Siberian husky is the wolf-like appearance. The same is true of malamutes and a few other wolfy looking breeds. I regularly have people ask me if Denali and Kaytu are wolves or wolfdogs (or incorrectly, "wolf hybrids"). I grin and politely inform them that no, they are huskies.
So what are the physical differences? How can you tell just by looking at one?
Here is Denali, a Siberian husky.
These are grey wolves.
There is no mistaking a wolf.
Wolves have a longer muzzle with less of a stop (angle between muzzle and forehead). Wolves have larger heads and teeth compared to body size. Their eyes are almost always yellow, but may be amber or brown. They also have round and very fuzzy ears, enormous feet, a narrower chest, and a tail that never curls among other other differences.
Also, wolves are huge! This is a wolfdog, about 98% wolf.
Here is an excellent example of feet. Both these are wolfdogs. The female on the left has dainty dog-like feet. The male on the right has huge feet that are much more wolf-like.
Wolves also have something different about their fur. This is a lowcontent wolfdog but exhibits this wolf trait well. They grow a ton of it in the winter:
and then lose it all in the summer! Anyone with a double coated breed knows how different their dog can look in short summer coat or fluffy thick winter coat but rarely can it compare to the change that happens in wolves.
Wolves also walk in a nearly straight line. This is a mid-content wolfdog that has a wolf-like walk. Dogs do not walk like this.
See the differences? Dogs are not wolves. They are closely related and share a common ancestor but they are not the same.
Wolfdogs can look very wolfy or hardly like a wolf at all depending on how much wolf content there is.You never know which wolf traits or dog traits may be inherited. Physical appearances are just the tip of the iceberg.
Wolf behavior is very, very different than dog behavior. There are too many differences to list in a short blog post and I wanted to focus on the physical differences. But I will mention one of the aspects I find most fascinating, and that is how dogs and wolves respond to people. Dogs seem to read our faces, whereas wolves don't. Using technology to track eye movements it was discovered that dogs examine our faces in a way that is similar to (though not as elaborate as) how people examine each others' faces. As explained on Dogs Decoded, when humans looks at pictures of the faces of other humans we look at the left side of their face first. When dogs look at pictures of objects or other dogs' faces they randomly look left or right, however when shown a picture of a human face they look left first. Could it be they are reading our emotions?
Dogs also interpret our gestures. The narrator of Dogs Decoded explains. "Cognitive psychologist Juliane Kaminski compares chimps with dogs, in a series of revealing experiments. At Leipzig Zoo, Kaminski is testing chimps to see if they can understand human gestures, like pointing, to find a hidden treat. As simple as it seems to us, even our nearest primate relatives fail the task miserably." For example, there may be two bowls a few feet apart. A treat is placed under one, and that bowl is pointed to. In this way it can be observed if the animal understands the association between following the gesture and the treat. The primates seem to make a choice before the gesture is even given. Dogs on the other hand quickly learn to follow where you are pointing. Dogs are so tuned into us that they will even follow our gaze. And wolves? "Unlike dogs, the wolf cubs do not respond to pointing. In fact, they hardly make eye contact with humans at all."
So what are the physical differences? How can you tell just by looking at one?
Here is Denali, a Siberian husky.
These are grey wolves.
There is no mistaking a wolf.
Wolves have a longer muzzle with less of a stop (angle between muzzle and forehead). Wolves have larger heads and teeth compared to body size. Their eyes are almost always yellow, but may be amber or brown. They also have round and very fuzzy ears, enormous feet, a narrower chest, and a tail that never curls among other other differences.
Also, wolves are huge! This is a wolfdog, about 98% wolf.
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| Cindy's Wolf Dogs |
Here is an excellent example of feet. Both these are wolfdogs. The female on the left has dainty dog-like feet. The male on the right has huge feet that are much more wolf-like.
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| www.hoofandhowl.com/dogs.html |
and then lose it all in the summer! Anyone with a double coated breed knows how different their dog can look in short summer coat or fluffy thick winter coat but rarely can it compare to the change that happens in wolves.
Wolves also walk in a nearly straight line. This is a mid-content wolfdog that has a wolf-like walk. Dogs do not walk like this.
See the differences? Dogs are not wolves. They are closely related and share a common ancestor but they are not the same.
Wolfdogs can look very wolfy or hardly like a wolf at all depending on how much wolf content there is.You never know which wolf traits or dog traits may be inherited. Physical appearances are just the tip of the iceberg.
Wolf behavior is very, very different than dog behavior. There are too many differences to list in a short blog post and I wanted to focus on the physical differences. But I will mention one of the aspects I find most fascinating, and that is how dogs and wolves respond to people. Dogs seem to read our faces, whereas wolves don't. Using technology to track eye movements it was discovered that dogs examine our faces in a way that is similar to (though not as elaborate as) how people examine each others' faces. As explained on Dogs Decoded, when humans looks at pictures of the faces of other humans we look at the left side of their face first. When dogs look at pictures of objects or other dogs' faces they randomly look left or right, however when shown a picture of a human face they look left first. Could it be they are reading our emotions?
Dogs also interpret our gestures. The narrator of Dogs Decoded explains. "Cognitive psychologist Juliane Kaminski compares chimps with dogs, in a series of revealing experiments. At Leipzig Zoo, Kaminski is testing chimps to see if they can understand human gestures, like pointing, to find a hidden treat. As simple as it seems to us, even our nearest primate relatives fail the task miserably." For example, there may be two bowls a few feet apart. A treat is placed under one, and that bowl is pointed to. In this way it can be observed if the animal understands the association between following the gesture and the treat. The primates seem to make a choice before the gesture is even given. Dogs on the other hand quickly learn to follow where you are pointing. Dogs are so tuned into us that they will even follow our gaze. And wolves? "Unlike dogs, the wolf cubs do not respond to pointing. In fact, they hardly make eye contact with humans at all."
October 17, 2012
Weight
How can you tell if your dog or cat is the right weight? Both dogs and cats have the same basic guidelines but there are exceptions.
For most dogs and cats you should be able to feel but not see their ribs. They should have a tummy tuck when viewed from the side, and when viewed from above their sides should tuck in between their last rib and hips. Depending on breed, you may or may not be able to see the dog's spine and hips.
This chart is a great guideline but it's a guideline and your pet's breed and structure need to be taken into account. Some breeds will not adhere to this and their healthy weight may be seen by this chart as being overweight or underweight.
For most pets it's easy enough to tell but it can be problematic for pets with longer fur or very thick fur as you would never be able to see their ribs even if they were emaciated skeletons, and judging how much of a tummy tuck and how much their sides tuck in can also be challenging. When you feel their ribs through all the fur you should be able to feel the space between the ribs but they should not be prominent for most breeds. Often the easiest way is to check while giving your dog or cat a bath. With their fur soaked and flattened down you're better able to see their shape. Here is a great example of how different a fluffy dog can look when wet.
My own dog, Denali, is a Siberian husky and her thick fur hides her ribs. When she's wet I can make sure she's not too thin or too filled
out.
For cats, many have loose skin on their belly that hangs down. This is ok if it is mostly loose skin and is not firm and full of fat. My cat Zebulon has a pooch that is a little fatty, but is mostly just loose skin. It is not firm. You can tell that he is slightly overweight though.
There are big exceptions for some breeds, notably sight hounds. A sight hound, such as a greyhound, afghan hound, or saluki, are built in such a way that it is normal for their skeletal structure to be a bit more visible. They are meant to be lightweight dogs, fast as lightning, for surviving in harsher climates and hunting extremely fast game such as gazelle. They have very deep chests which often makes their ribs more prominent. Their spine and hips may also be visible. This is not an excuse to have an emaciated dog and each dog will vary. There is a clear difference between a sighthound at an appropriate weight that has a more visible structure, and one that is emaciated and unhealthy.
Even sighthounds have their limits. This dog, a Saluki, is emaciated.
For some dogs a heavier build is encouraged especially in the show ring. Labrador Retrievers come to mind. I have heard of labs who, after their show career, lose as much as 20 to 25 lbs.
Ironic as the dogs often preferred for retrieving and doing the job they were bred for, the "field" variety, tend to be kept much lighter. That's not to say the "show" labs couldn't do it, though this gets us into the health concerns with heavier dogs such as hip dysplasia- and the whole fiasco of breeding dogs who are less able to perform their original function due to breeding exaggerated features, but that's a rant for another day.
As with people there are numerous health concerns for overweight pets. It strains their joints, ligaments, bones, and heart. They can get diabetes, arthritis, and hip dysplasia. Dogs with long back like dachshunds and basset hounds can get slipped discs in their backs. Heart disease, high blood pressure, trouble breathing especially when it's hot, decreased liver and immune function, and decreased quality of life and lifespan are all common in overweight and obese pets among other concerns. Likewise, being too skinny can also have serious and severe consequences. We are surrounded by overweight pets and can become desensitized to it, making us think a dog or cat at a proper weight is too thin. Your dog should not look like a sausage with legs and a head. They should have tummy tucks and side tucks, and you should be able to feel their ribs without having to dig for them.
There are many things you can do to keep your pet at a healthy weight, and get them to a healthy weight if they are too heavy or too thin.
-Feed a high quality food.
-Measure their food. Use a measuring cup or weigh their food if they are raw fed, and don't free feed (have food available 24/7). Portion control is one of the most important factors in keeping your pet at a healthy weight. Different foods have different feeding guidelines. For example, my foster dog being fed a low quality corn based food needed 6+ cups a day, but on a high quality food needs just over 2 cups a day. Look at the guideline on the package and adjust as needed.
-Consider the impact of treats, edible chewtoys, and handouts. Treats are often high calorie and with a new dog or when working on new behaviors you may be going through a lot of treats. Use the dog's kibble as treats when you're giving lots of treats, or cut back on their regular food if necessary.
-Exercise! Have your dog play fetch, tug, teach it to jog with you or run with you while you bike, get involved in a sport like flyball, agility, disc dog, dock diving, free style, weight pulling, etc. For cats, play with them. Have them chase and play with feathers, laser pointers, balls, and other toys. Take it easy when exercising an overweight or underweight pet. Start slow, don't have them exercise in the heat, and keep sessions short. As with people, your pet needs to gradually get used to a workout routine and they can injure themselves or push themselves too far.
-Consider your pet may have a medical condition. Their thyroid gland may be affecting their weight. Diabetes or other conditions may be having an effect as well.
Be very careful when having a cat lose weight. As cats process the excess fat stored in their body it can potentially overwhelm their liver. This leads to a potentially fatal form of liver disease called hepatic lipidosis.
If your pet is rapidly gaining or losing weight take it to the vet as soon as possible.
It's a good idea to consult a vet about having your pet on a diet to gain or lose weight before making any changes, but don't buy in to any silly prescription diets. Healthy pets need healthy food!
This chart is a great guideline but it's a guideline and your pet's breed and structure need to be taken into account. Some breeds will not adhere to this and their healthy weight may be seen by this chart as being overweight or underweight.
 |
| Click to enlarge |
For most pets it's easy enough to tell but it can be problematic for pets with longer fur or very thick fur as you would never be able to see their ribs even if they were emaciated skeletons, and judging how much of a tummy tuck and how much their sides tuck in can also be challenging. When you feel their ribs through all the fur you should be able to feel the space between the ribs but they should not be prominent for most breeds. Often the easiest way is to check while giving your dog or cat a bath. With their fur soaked and flattened down you're better able to see their shape. Here is a great example of how different a fluffy dog can look when wet.
 |
| www.linein.org |
 |
| A nice tummy tuck, and no ribs visible. |
 |
| Her sides tuck in between her rib cage and hips. |
For cats, many have loose skin on their belly that hangs down. This is ok if it is mostly loose skin and is not firm and full of fat. My cat Zebulon has a pooch that is a little fatty, but is mostly just loose skin. It is not firm. You can tell that he is slightly overweight though.
There are big exceptions for some breeds, notably sight hounds. A sight hound, such as a greyhound, afghan hound, or saluki, are built in such a way that it is normal for their skeletal structure to be a bit more visible. They are meant to be lightweight dogs, fast as lightning, for surviving in harsher climates and hunting extremely fast game such as gazelle. They have very deep chests which often makes their ribs more prominent. Their spine and hips may also be visible. This is not an excuse to have an emaciated dog and each dog will vary. There is a clear difference between a sighthound at an appropriate weight that has a more visible structure, and one that is emaciated and unhealthy.
 |
| This dog, an Azawakh, shows how the hips and ribs are often prominent on a sight hound. This dog could gain a few lbs but it is not unhealthy or at risk at this lower weight. If a dog such as a Labrador was this thin it would be quite alarming. |
 |
| Racing greyhound, also showing ribs. |
For some dogs a heavier build is encouraged especially in the show ring. Labrador Retrievers come to mind. I have heard of labs who, after their show career, lose as much as 20 to 25 lbs.
 |
| GCH CH Casbar’s Hart to Hart |
 |
| http://pedigreedogsexposed.blogspot.com |
As with people there are numerous health concerns for overweight pets. It strains their joints, ligaments, bones, and heart. They can get diabetes, arthritis, and hip dysplasia. Dogs with long back like dachshunds and basset hounds can get slipped discs in their backs. Heart disease, high blood pressure, trouble breathing especially when it's hot, decreased liver and immune function, and decreased quality of life and lifespan are all common in overweight and obese pets among other concerns. Likewise, being too skinny can also have serious and severe consequences. We are surrounded by overweight pets and can become desensitized to it, making us think a dog or cat at a proper weight is too thin. Your dog should not look like a sausage with legs and a head. They should have tummy tucks and side tucks, and you should be able to feel their ribs without having to dig for them.
There are many things you can do to keep your pet at a healthy weight, and get them to a healthy weight if they are too heavy or too thin.
-Feed a high quality food.
-Measure their food. Use a measuring cup or weigh their food if they are raw fed, and don't free feed (have food available 24/7). Portion control is one of the most important factors in keeping your pet at a healthy weight. Different foods have different feeding guidelines. For example, my foster dog being fed a low quality corn based food needed 6+ cups a day, but on a high quality food needs just over 2 cups a day. Look at the guideline on the package and adjust as needed.
-Consider the impact of treats, edible chewtoys, and handouts. Treats are often high calorie and with a new dog or when working on new behaviors you may be going through a lot of treats. Use the dog's kibble as treats when you're giving lots of treats, or cut back on their regular food if necessary.
-Exercise! Have your dog play fetch, tug, teach it to jog with you or run with you while you bike, get involved in a sport like flyball, agility, disc dog, dock diving, free style, weight pulling, etc. For cats, play with them. Have them chase and play with feathers, laser pointers, balls, and other toys. Take it easy when exercising an overweight or underweight pet. Start slow, don't have them exercise in the heat, and keep sessions short. As with people, your pet needs to gradually get used to a workout routine and they can injure themselves or push themselves too far.
-Consider your pet may have a medical condition. Their thyroid gland may be affecting their weight. Diabetes or other conditions may be having an effect as well.
Be very careful when having a cat lose weight. As cats process the excess fat stored in their body it can potentially overwhelm their liver. This leads to a potentially fatal form of liver disease called hepatic lipidosis.
If your pet is rapidly gaining or losing weight take it to the vet as soon as possible.
It's a good idea to consult a vet about having your pet on a diet to gain or lose weight before making any changes, but don't buy in to any silly prescription diets. Healthy pets need healthy food!
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