August 26, 2012

Diesel's Box

Diesel is a smart dog. While he doesn't fit with us, stresses Kaytu, and it will be better for everyone when he goes to a new foster, I know that he is definitely smart. I decided to try "101 Things To Do With A Box" with him. I haven't even tried it on the girls yet but it seemed like the perfect game for him. The basic idea is that it's a clicker training game where you "capture" a behavior by marking it with the click, and then the behavior can be "shaped" by requiring a slight change in the behavior already being presented. [Note: The clicker must be "charged" first so the sound has meaning to the dog.] At first, you mark (click) when the dog even looks at the box. Then you start requiring the dog to touch or interact with the box in some way, and then build on that. After several sessions when the dog has caught on to the game the rules change so that the dog has to do something new with the box each time. Only new behaviors will be marked and rewarded each time. This can initially be frustrating for the dog as behaviors that were previously rewarded no longer work. The dog will catch on and come up with all kinds of interesting things to do. All on their own! Dogs are intelligent and perfectly capable of figuring out ways to train their humans to give them treats. There is no luring or physically touching the dog in any way, and it's good to limit using your voice as well.

I grabbed a shallow box about 10"x13" and about 3 inches deep, and armed myself with a bag of pea-sized treats and my clicker. I picked this box because it's relatively small but big enough to interact with. It also has big flaps to interact with.

I confidently placed the box on the floor and grinned. Diesel looked at me, his forehead wrinkled and one bottom tooth sticking out. He licked, a behavior I've previously taught him. No reward this time! He licked again. Then he licked again. He sat down and licked and smacked his jowls about another 7 times. No reward, that's not what I want. Should I help him? No! I crossed that thought out of my head. He would look at the box eventually, I just had to be patient. Minutes passed. He licked a little more, he walked around a little, and mostly he sat and stared at me with that wrinkled forehead. I admit to poking the box with my foot twice to get him to notice it. He didn't seem to care anyway. I knew I really didn't want to lure him so I didn't try to help him again. Eventually he turned his head to his right, away from the box. Then he looked left, directly at the box. Click! "Yes! Good boy!" and a tasty treat. He did it! It took over 5 minutes which feels like an eternity of waiting when all I was doing was staring at him, but he did it. Within the next 5 minutes he figured out the box was magical. Every time he looked at the box I would click, tell him Yes or Good, and give him a treat.

He was sitting face-to-face with me, the box on his left. He'd look at the box, click, treat, look, click, treat, look click treat, several times then he'd stop and look at me. I remained silent except for my verbal marker and praise after each correct behavior. After pausing for 5-10 seconds to look at me he would look back to the box. He's got it!

Soon he was not only glancing at the box, but holding his gaze to it for a second or two. Time to change the criteria! Any time he held his gaze or leaned toward it I would click and reward. A quick glance was not enough any more. If he leaned in or stuck his head down to it I would click and reward with several treats and excited petting. He is a very affectionate dog who loves petting, it's the ultimate way to show him he was a good boy. It wasn't long before the criteria changed again and he had to touch the box with his nose or mouth.

He was already guiding the game and choosing the path by using his face to interact with it instead of his paws or body. At this point, using his face, he has many options. He could try to push or pull the box along the floor, pick up the box, press down on the box, lick the box, whatever he wanted to do.

He was offering two different behaviors and I was marking them both. I was wondering if he would get confused, combine the behaviors, or choose one over the over. The first behavior he offered was using his nose to push down on one of the flaps. Every time he pressed the flap with his nose, I clicked, said Yes or Good, and gave him a treat. He experimented and found out that this game worked on every single flap! What a smart boy.. he tested! Was it only one flap that worked, or was it all of them? My jaw dropped the first time he tried a different flap then looked up at me with his even more wrinkled, head slightly tilted and ears forward as if he was asking "This one too?" 

He started pushing down harder on it sometimes and each time he did that he received an extra treat or two as well as petting. Gradually the criteria was changing from touching the flap to pressing it down with force. At the same time, he started mouthing the edge of the flaps- easily shaped into picking up the box and I just couldn't ignore it, so I marked and rewarded it the same way as I did the flap press. He would put his lips around an edge. He never progressed to trying to lift, push, pull, or do anything else, and his teeth never touched the cardboard (which was now very gross and slimy). Unless he offered something new on his own, the behavior could not progress to something new.

While marking these two behaviors he suddenly offered a new one. He gently lifted his paw and put it on a flap. I clicked and rewarded him, and cheered him on and pet him. I tried for several days to teach Diesel to shake and could never get him to lift his paw, and here he does it on his own with no lure! He is thrilled with himself and immediately stomps on the box again. "I like this game!" He stomps on the box several more times without offering any other behaviors. As he stomps harder, the box begins to sometimes flip up on its side. How fun! The criteria has now changed and he must step hard enough to flip the box up. He figures this out quickly and is rewarded each time.

While initially a new behavior is rewarded excitedly with petting and bonus treats, the behavior becomes mastered and I gradually give less of a reward by giving only a click, Yes or Good, and a single treat.

I don't think he likes that. Again, he chooses a new behavior on his own even though he is being consistently rewarded for something else. Why would he do that?? I'm honestly not sure why he would unless he figured out that new behaviors are more rewarding. He tentatively lifts his left paw and places it in the bottom of the box. He looks up at me with that extra wrinkly face, head slightly tilted. "What about this?" I click and reward excitedly with petting immediately.

Once again he is thrilled with himself, and once again he offers this new behavior several times in a row without offering any other behavior. Then he stops, looks at me, and pees on the floor. No, that behavior is NOT one I'm looking for. I get him outside asap and clean up the floor. I know better than to stop training. He is a smart dog. What if he thinks training isn't over until he pees? That would be an awful habit to create! I bring him back inside and stand by the box. What will he do?

He gently steps on the flap and looks up at me. Nope, not good enough for a click! You have to make it flip up. I give the first verbal encouragement of the session. "Mhmm," and a slight nod. He stomps on it. He goes back to stomping on the flap to make the box flip up and does this several times. Then he tries placing his paw in the bottom again, which I click and reward. He goes back and forth between the two. For a while he does both about equally but he starts doing more stomps to flip the box on its side than placing his paw in the bottom. It's always his left paw he stomps with or places in the bottom.

I decided to stop as we'd been going for a good half hour by that point. That's an extremely long training session for something new and I had not planned on doing that to him! My initial goal was to get him to touch the box with some part of his body. Once he started to figure out the game he was so engaged and so happy with himself that I couldn't stop. I wanted to know what else he could do! I chose to stop when I did because I didn't want him to get bored or disinterested, and a break is definitely needed after that long.

I set up the video camera to record this whole thing but of course the batteries died about 2 minutes in when all that had happened was me standing there with Diesel sitting in front of me staring and licking his chops. I'll charge the batteries and try to record what happens next session.

August 24, 2012

Microchipping Your Pet

Chipping has become a routine procedure that in some areas is even required by law. But are they safe? Do they really cause cancer?

To put it simply, there is a risk but it appears extremely rare for a microchip to cause any serious or permanent damage. The risk is insignificant and it's worth that risk to microchip. Microchips reunite pets with their owners every single day. HomeAgain's website claims "Every month, HomeAgain reunites 10,000 pets with the people that love them," and over a million pets have been reunited with their owners through HomeAgain.

That's nice, but what about the risks? You're sticking something under your pet's skin. It can migrate, a cancerous tumor can grow around it, and there can be fatal or permanent complications. Fear not! These are all very rare incidences. An extremely small percentage of pets get tumors or cancerous growths around the chip.

Note: Many of the sources I've cited are anti-microchip sites because they have many of the studies and rare incidences all in one place. I am not anti-microchipping and in fact strongly support chipping; I believe the risk is insignificant as microchips save hundreds and hundreds of lives every day.

If nothing else, read this. This is the bottom line. Keep it in mind as you continue:
"Microchips have been used extensively in pets over the last decade. They are especially prevalent in the United Kingdom, where over four million cats and dogs have received the implants. The British Small Animal Veterinary Association has been tracking adverse reactions to microchips since 1996. They identified a link between microchips and cancer in two dogs.
Two dogs out of four million is a very low number indeed.
It turns out that the strains of mice and rats cited in the studies that first noted the microchip-cancer link had been developed to be especially prone to cancer. In these animals, microchips caused tumors at very high rates. So did anything else that was implanted under the skin. In this case, it may not be appropriate to draw a direct link between these rodents and household pets." [source]

What percentage is 2 of 4,000,000? It's 0.00005%. I hope you'll remember that bottom line. Microchips carry a risk, but the risk of losing your pet is immensely greater than the risk of cancer or adverse affects caused by the chip.

"You can treat most cancers," wrote a dog enthusiast in a recent online debate about microchipping. "You can't treat a no-kill shelter's last-day policy." 

Do Microchips Cause Cancer?
The studies that have been conducted concerning cancer and microchips are not reliable studies.
"A 1998 study of 177 mice reported an incidence of cancer of just over 10 percent. A French study in 2006 noted tumors in 4.1 percent of 1,260 microchipped mice. And a German study in 1997 linked cancer to microchips in 1 percent of 4,279 mice.

None of the studies had control groups of nonchipped mice, which means that there were no "normal" cancer rates to use as a comparison." [source]

Most tumors/cancer are found between the shoulder blades, where the chip is implanted- but that is also the site of vaccinations which is another thing to think about.

As far as I know, there are no scientific studies about microchips that are done with dogs. There are case studies but the experiments are all rats or mice with no control groups, so you can't tell what the difference is. Even if 10% of mice got cancer with a chip, maybe 9.8% would get cancer anyway without a chip. Or maybe only 1.4% would. You don't know. You need a control group and to use the right kind of mice. Can mice compare to dogs anyway?

There are a couple case studies of dogs who had a malignant cancerous tumor attached to/surrounding the microchip. It could be from any number of other things, including (over)vaccination, but it very well could be a direct result of the microchip and it does appear that way.
Dog 1:
http://www.antichips.com/cancer/02-vascellari-et-al-fibrosarcoma-2006-overview.pdf

Dog 2: http://www.antichips.com/cancer/03-vascellari-et-al-liposarcoma-2004-overview.pdf
 
Here is the larger study which included these two dogs, as well as 9 other studies on rodents. Again, keep in mind the rodents studied were prone to cancer and there were no control groups.
http://www.chipmenot.org/pdfs/P074.pdf


Are There Risks Other Than Cancer?
Unfortunately yes, and they can have quite horrible outcomes. There are other very rare occurrences not related to cancer or tumors I've come across, when the microchip is being inserted.

In 2009 a Chihuahua bled to death through the tiny hole created by inserting the chip. Read the full story here. My gut reaction was that the dog must have had a blood clotting disorder or something wrong but it's important to note that the dog did not have a blood clotting disorder as he had previously undergone neutering and a tooth extraction. As mentioned in the story, the space between the shoulderblades is not known to have any major blood vessels. The vet is unsure of why the dog bled so profusely, and was not held at fault.

In 2004 a struggling kitten died immediately after being microchipped, and in another case a cat was neurologically damaged.
"A post-mortemexamination later revealed that the microchip had been accidentally inserted into the kitten's brainstem(BSAVA, 2004).
In another case a cat suffered severe neurological damage when a microchip was accidentally injected into its spinal column (Platt et al., 2006)" [source]

These incidences of cancer, tumors, death, and permanent damage are tragic to say the least. Microchips are designed to save lives, not cause harm. I've said the risk is insignificant. The risk is insignificant until it's your pet. Until your dog is bleeding out, until your dog has cancer. That is significant and a sobering thought. I still stand by my statement of fully supporting microchips. As of now, based on the science and literature available, every pet I own will be microchipped. Chips save lives. That is the case every day- lives are saved. Remember how HomeAgain saves 10,000 pets a month? On average over 330 pets are reunited with their owners every single day, and that's just one microchip company. I'm not going to be overly worried or intimidated by a 0.00005% risk.

I Don't Want to Microchip! What Can I Do?
One of the best alternatives to microchipping is tattooing. An identification number is typically tattooed on the pet's inner thigh or the inside of the ear. It takes only a couple minutes and therefore pets are not anesthetized for this procedure. Anesthesia carries a risk in itself. If your pet is going under for a spay/neuter or another procedure it would be a good time to get the tattoo done however your pet does not need to be under for a tattoo. There is claim that the procedure does not hurt as pet skin is different from our own but I'm not sure I believe that. Pinch your dog's skin and guess what? He doesn't like that because it hurts. Speaking from personal experience, having a vibrating needle under your skin hurts and the vibration itself is an odd sensation that I imagine a pet may not appreciate.

Tattoos can fade but the number can be reapplied. Dogs with furry inner thighs must be kept shaved or trimmed very short there so the number can be visible.

Find out more information at the National Dog Registry.

August 19, 2012

Escape, and Shock Collar Work

Another moment of terror. Kaytu got out. Again. The garage door was up and when my husband went out from the house Kaytu bolted out. She's been *dying* for a run but it's been far too hot. Part of her treatment plan in helping her to not run off is bike rides at least 3x a week but that's only been possible late night at about 9 or 10pm and even then it's often still above 70*. I heard hub yell "KAAAAYTU! OH, S***!" and the door slammed. I bolted out the front door to the porch and didn't see anyone but the neighbor lady clutching her little nightmare of a dog. Ran back in the house and grabbed my keys and peeled out, rolling all the windows down as I went as I know Kaytu has the urge to jump into the car (from her last escape at my parent's house not long ago). Lady was now around the corner, I slammed the brakes and asked which way they went. She pointed. I peeled out again. k2 has got be headed for the park, I figure. I turn toward the main road and there she is, standing calmly on the sidewalk with hub sneaking up on her and 3 cars in my way. One guy opens his door and gets out and tries to lure Kaytu. During all this I'm wiggling my way through a gap between the cars I never would have normally tried to fit through. Very surprised I didn't scrape. Kaytu sees hub coming up and blots again straight toward that busy 4 lanes of traffic. I'm fully prepared to run the red light to block cars. I blast my horn over and over, and Kay turns right, following the sidewalk. I scream KAYTU!!! as I get next to her. She cowers and I kiss to her. She starts heading up to the car.

Oh yeah, hazard lights. Better turn those on. She hops right into the back seat. I roll the windows up and pull further into the shoulder, and hub isn't far behind. He gets in and we drive back home. Kaytu's ears were back the entire way home. She wasn't sulking or sad looking, more like she was pleading. She looked like she was saying "I'm sorry, I just couldn't help it! I was so excited!!! I needed to run and explore! You're not mad are you?" She received no punishment or even a harsh glare. We loved on her and I strapped her e-collar on as hub was still going to be in and out of the garage for a bit. Hub told me that the neighbor lady had picked up her dog and was just standing there shrieking as Kaytu jumped up to say hi to it. Maybe next time you could grab a loose dog when it approaches you? My husband is obviously in pursuit and calling out, and you choose to just stand there shrieking like a fair maiden of olden days, completely helpless and scared? Puh-lease.

I haven't actually tested the level on her in a while so once I was sure she would feel something and had the collar tight enough and the prongs through her fur all the way down to her skin, I started bringing it up. 1/2.. nothing.. 1.. nothing.. up to 2.5 before she looked around and looked startled and made a really quiet whine. 2.5 it is! The other dogs were outside during this process, I wasn't going to risk her redirecting like "I felt pain, Nali is next to me, Nali caused pain, I'm going to attack Nali" because that's how dogs' brains work. I did some basic obedience training with all 3 dogs and also the cats and we chilled out for a couple hours. I then took Kaytu for a walk to get to a good park area for some recall training. She was wearing the shock collar still but the remote was off during the walk. She also had on her regular collar and a flexi lead. I like the flexi for shock collar training because it's so lightweight. With slack in it there's barely and tug on it at all. I want her (and myself) to feel like physically there isn't a tie between us, that it really is her choice to stay or go.

She was so calm on the walk. Focused. Stopped and sat as I'd slow down. Didn't pull. Didn't lag behind. We walked over to the park. We walked around the grass and she remained close and attentive. I was rewarding her generously with yummy crunchy treats during the walk and now for staying close to me and following my movements. Then I sat, she laid herself down, and I loved on her and had a heart-to-heart about why what she did wasn't a good thing and how scared it makes me. Belly rubs, ear rubs, paw rubs, and neck scratches as best I could with both collars on there.

She was so "soft" by this point that I didn't think 2.5 was an appropriate level anymore. When she was all worked up, 2.5 was what she needed. Now she was relaxed and attentive. I turned the remote on to 1. In previous training she's needed about a 1 or 1.5. I showed her I had no more treats in my hands. She didn't care. She laid there watching me. What a good girl. She's not going to wander off right now. Ok, backup plan. Usually I like to let her be wandering and not paying attention to me, then call her, zap if needed, and reward her when she gets to me. The zap starts when she chooses to ignore and stops the instant she turns toward me and starts coming. I use the continual button meaning the zap isn't one jolt but a continuous stimulation. She already has the foundation work and knows how this training works; the dog has to understand what you want before you simply zap it until it does what you want. What I was doing today is not the beginning of the training and is not the way to start training a dog with an e-collar. My backup plan was that I'd put her in a Sit-Stay and change it up between returning to her and rewarding her, or calling her to me. The first time I did a recall version she came to me. The next time, she looked away into space. Zap. She gave a startled face and jumped up a little and started coming to me. I turned it down to 1/2, the lowest setting (which admittedly is still enough to make my arm twitch a little if I hold the prongs on my thumb). We went back and forth between Sit-Stay-Come and Sit-Stay where I return, and I threw in some random obedience and tricks as well.

The idea was not to trick her or set her up to fail, that's never the point. I'd much rather reward her for coming than zap her for not listening. Sometimes we've done training sessions with the e-collar on and she never messes up and never gets a shock. Good for her!!! That's how I want it to be. The shock collar is NOT the primary method of teaching recall. The primary method is to teach her that coming when called = treats and all the good things in the world and it's worth it for her to come to me.

She got a total of 3 zaps today during the session. There were many more successes and rewards than punishments. On the walk home she lagged behind to smell and ended up about 10-12 feet behind me and not caring where I was. I took the opportunity to tell her to come, treats ready. She didn't listen. I did an instant zap instead of the continuous, still on 1/2, and she came right to me and got a bunch of treats. We had a very successful day!

I want to add that she does still randomly wear the e-collar around the house for random amounts of time. Usually it is not on. This is to prevent her from creating any kind of negative association with the collar on.

August 17, 2012

Recommended Reading

Here is my personal reading list and books I highly recommend. I haven't read all of them yet but I have plans to! I'll update the list periodically. These are great resources for basic training, specific issues, understanding animal behavior, or general life with dogs. There are several well respected trainers and authors such as Karen Pryor, Patricia McConnell, Pat Miller, Paul Owens, Jean Donaldson, Ian Dunbar, Susan Garrett, and many others.
































August 15, 2012

Dog Vs Dog Training

I admit it. I've been slacking. Obedience training has been infrequent apart from daily routines like Sit-Wait before feeding, Wait when I open the crates instead of charging out, and Sit when riding in the car. Denali listens automatically which I take for granted but I do continue to randomly reinforce her for listening so well. Diesel I'm still focusing on other things like personal space, sitting for attention, not jumping up uninvited, and other manners. Knowing how to give me his paw is nowhere near as important as teaching him to keep his nose out of the trash. Kaytu never really misbehaves apart from her occasional ninja skills appearing when she attempts to steal the cats' food but she has been getting sloppy and non-responsive when told to Sit, Down, or Come. From the very beginning it's been difficult to get her attention as she is very husky-like in terms of her "Why should I listen to you? I like what I'm doing so I don't care what you're doing!" attitude, but she's very food motivated and responds well with consistent training. She had to be taught to pay attention which was a major challenge in itself and I've noticed her falling back into those bad habits of ignoring me the last week or so. I'm not about to let that happen! With 3 dogs in the house (and two beggar cats) training can be a challenge. Individual training doesn't happen too much right now as it involves putting the other two dogs in their crates and also keeping the cats out of the way. Instead I decided put the dogs against each other.

The basics are that when I give a command the dog that completes the behavior first is the winner and gets two treats, and the next dog gets one treat, and the last dog also gets a treat. I go through the motions and mix up a bunch of commands and cues. Sit. Down. Stand. Down. Sit. Wait. Up. Stand. Focus (make eye contact). Down. Wait. Stand. Up. Focus. Sit. Paw (for us "shake" is "shake off your fur" not "give me your paw"). Diesel doesn't know Paw so I'll cue him to stick out his tongue, which the girls don't know. I ask the cats for Sit too, and also Down for Zebulon and Up for Everest. The little beggars are always hovering during treat time.

They all come running over when they hear me get the treat bag. I ask for a sit immediately to prevent Nali from bumping her nose against me and to prevent Kaytu and Diesel from jumping up. Timing is everything. Tip: Holding treats in your hand lower instead of up at chest level helps keep them from jumping up. The dog that sits first gets two treats fed one immediately after another. Treat-treat. Giving both at once is meaningless to a dog. A dog doesn't really care if the treat is the size of a pea or the size of a quarter, and eating two treats at the same time may as well be one big treat. Think of it like someone giving you mini M&Ms. Giving you one is pretty much the same as getting two at a time. But if you get one and then are given a bonus one after already eating the first one it's awesome! On a basic level, getting a bonus mini M&M would be better than having just one regular sized M&M too. Giving one treat after another is more rewarding, exciting, and motivating for a dog than giving one big treat or two treats simultaneously. Another variation is to give a highly desirable awesome treat like cheese or peanut butter or whatever the dogs love to the winner and to give a less valuable/less awesome treat to the other dogs. I'm not coordinated or fast enough to treat 3 dogs with different treats though.

When I first did this Kaytu was sloppy and slow. Her sit was good but she didn't lay down when I gave the command. What did I do? Repeating a command is not helpful to a dog or their training. Sit means sit your butt on the ground right now, and Down means lay down right now. The command is "Down," one time. Just once. It is not "Down.. Dooown.. DOWN..DOOOWWWNN!! I SAID DOWN!!!" She is smart enough to figure it out and she knows the command. So what to do? I continued to give Denali and Diesel treats for staying down. Guess who decided to lay down. No lure, no vocal encouragement, no pushing or touching her. She did it on her own. I jackpotted her by placing about 5 treats on the floor between her paws. I gave Denali and Diesel another treat for remaining down, and just as Kaytu was finishing her treats I gave her another few. Laying down is rewarding!

From there I continued and randomly mixed up the commands. Random mixing of the cues is important because dogs catch on to patterns. If for example you always do Sit, Paw, Down, Roll Over in that order then the dog is going to figure out the pattern and give you all four behaviors when you only ask for Sit. They can also start skipping behaviors so, still using that example, you could ask for Sit and they go straight to Down and Roll Over. Suddenly "sit" means "roll over." Don't let that happen. Mix it up!

We played the game for about 10 minutes the first time. Winner got two treats, second and third got one treat. There are no losers as they are all listening and doing the right thing. They all get rewarded every single time they do the right thing. This keeps them interested and motivated, and rewarding a behavior increases the dog's desire to perform that behavior. The only way the dog loses is by not performing the command. If the command was to be completely ignored (hasn't happened yet) I'd lure the dog into doing what they were told. They're getting pretty good at this game. If I give a command and more than one dog instantly responds creating a tie, they both get two treats. If they are slow and tie they get one treat. More effort = more treats.

Kaytu wised up pretty quick and was soon beating Diesel on laying down. For this first competition style training session I continued to give her an extra treat or two to encourage her even if she wasn't first.

Why does this work? The dogs motivated each other and themselves to do better. The winner not only got two treats but was rewarded first. They quickly figured out that they don't have to wait for their reward if they listen immediately. Dogs will always take the shortest path to the reward.

The next night we played again. Guess who was the first dog laying down. They were all much more attentive and quick to move. A little competition can go a long way in improving a dog's reaction time.