I love going to the dog park with my girls but there are many things I notice that lead to bad experiences for dogs and people alike. Here is my view of the dog park and the rules and etiquette I follow. I will also be outlining the things that often result in a fight. Don't let me lead you into thinking fights are common, they aren't. 99% of the time I go to a park nothing bad happens, but it seems to always be the same type of things that lead to fights. I do whatever I can to let dogs be dogs while preventing fights or bad experiences. Each dog park will have it's own posted rules and you should read them and abide by them.
1. A Place for Socialization
Dog parks should be viewed first and foremost as a place for socialization, not as a place to bring your dog that has been cooped up all day or all week and needs to let all that energy out. The physical energy used by playing and running around is a welcomed bonus but dog parks are not the place to bring your dog that is exploding with energy. Play fetch with your dog in the backyard for 30 minutes, go for a run/bike ride/roller blade/longboard/etc., even a 30 minute loose-leash walk, before coming to the park. When dogs burst into the park with uncontrollable energy it's an immediate recipe for a fight as other dogs typically do not appreciate the initial bouncing and jumping that takes the place of a polite greeting. You don't need to exhaust your dog before coming to the park but brief exercise to take the edge off that crazy, wild energy will be appreciated. I like leaving enough energy in there so they can run around, play, wrestle, and have a great time, but I get enough out beforehand that they can control themselves and listen to me. Often the way I handle exercise first is to bike to the park, which is 1.5 miles from our house. A short ride (for a husky) but it's enough to take the edge off that energy.
2. How to Approach the Park
One of the things that creates instant mistrust and nervousness in me is when I see a dog dragging its owner up to the gate. I sarcastically think, "Oh great, it's nice to see that you already have such good control over your dog, and that your dog is nice and calm!" Dogs entering the park in that frame of mind are so worked up that again it's a recipe for a fight. It's natural for dogs to be excited for the park. When I drive to the park my girls start whining as soon as we turn down the road. Once we get out of the car though I refuse to let them pull me up to the gate. I require them to walk nicely and to achieve a state of control and focus before bringing them in. Another benefit of taking your time in walking up to the gate is that most dogs already in the park will get bored of waiting for you and will run off. I'm a fan of not having a huge welcoming committee.
3. Entering the Park
Every dog park I've been to has had 2 gates. Lead your dogs through the first gate and shut it behind you. Both gates should NEVER be opened at the same time. You never know if a dog is going to run out of the park and then it would be your fault for having the gates open. I ask my girls to sit between the two gates so that I can remove their collars. I take the collars off and not just the leash because I don't want other dogs hanging onto their collars and choking them. Recently I heard that two dogs wearing collars nearly died because their collars got caught on each other. They were fighting, twisting, and panicking. They nearly strangled each other to death. I also don't want other dogs to hurt their teeth or mouths by biting on the collar or tags. It also keeps the collars clean. You don't have to take the collar off, it's just my preference. If your dog has a choke chain, pinch collar, or other correctional collar, take it off. These collars are a hazard to the dog and other dogs at the park as they can get caught on things or hurt other dogs' mouths.
You must take the leash off at this time before passing through the next gate into the park. It is common for first-time people to leave the leash on because they are nervous about how their dog will react and if it is safe. If you are very nervous leave the leash on but drop it. Don't hold it. That way you can step on the leash if you need to but your dog will have more freedom to move than if you were holding it. If you do this, be careful to not let any dog get tangled in the leash. I have seen too many fights start right at the gate because the owner is holding the leash tight and their dog is pulling but can't move. The dog gets surrounded by other dogs, feels trapped (because it is), panics, and starts lashing out at every other dog because that is its only option since it can't move. With leashes off the dog will be free to move and able to give and receive polite greetings. The chance of a fight is drastically reduced. I will always walk up to people who are beginning to enter the park with leashes on and will ask if they can take the leash off so their dog can move. It's very forward of me and I know that, but leashed dogs cause problems more often than not because their owners don't give them room to move, or will even drag their dog into the park.
So you're in between the two gates, you've taken the leash off, and your dog is sitting or at least waiting patiently. Step in front of your dog, swing the gate outward to gently push back other dogs, release your dog, and step into the park ahead of your dog. If you open the gate inward it invites the other dogs to rush in and surround your dog. Please walk forward into the park and don't just stand there at the gate! If you let the dog go in first in front of you, again the other dogs will be able to surround your dog. Surrounding your dog is usually not a bad thing but if there are many dogs then your dog may feel overwhelmed and may start to snip at other dogs to have them back up. This is also ok, but you'll need to keep an extremely close eye to make sure it doesn't turn into a fight. The gate into the park is where I see the majority of fights. Dogs enter with uncontrollable energy and get surrounded, feel trapped, and start lashing out. Teeth baring, snips, stiff posture, and little scuffles at the gate are fairly common if the dog entering is overwhelmed and you should not overreact to them. The dog entering is telling the other dogs to back off, which is appropriate social behavior as long as it does not escalate. Keep a very close eye on your dog and other dogs when you enter to make sure nothing escalates.
Never reprimand your dog or other dogs for showing warning signs like baring their teeth or growling. You should distract or lure the dog away (and leave if the dog is very stressed) but physical punishment or scolding is counterproductive and may actually make the aggression worse. Dogs use those signs as warnings, so to tell your dog not to use them is telling your dog to skip that warning stage and jump straight into fighting. Never a good thing!
 |
| Polite greetings are made much easier when dogs are *not* on leash. Never stop your dog in the middle of a greeting, or discourage your dog from greeting other dogs unless the other dogs are clearly not ready. You can tell Denali is excited to meet the black dog- her tail is up and the fur down her back is also up. Raised fur in itself does NOT mean aggression, it means excitement. |
 |
| Submission theendlessroadtrip.com |
Other dogs will likely be nuzzling, mouthing, and trying to play and wrestle with yours. They are not being mean or aggressive by doing this. Unless your dog is yelping and crying and the other dogs are not letting up there is no reason for you to step in. The occasional yelp from your dog is ok, you do not need to step in as long as the other dog pauses a second before trying to play with your dog again. That yelp is important communication as your dog says "I'm not ready yet, please stop that, that's too rough for me" and the other dog says "oh, ok, my bad! I guess that was too much, let me try again." Your dog will be all right and it is beneficial for your dog to go through this socialization process. If you try to 'save' your dog every single time this happens then your dog will not learn that part of the social skills it needs. You do need to protect your dog from dogs who are much larger and may accidentally hurt yours, and from any dogs who are not pausing when yours yelps and are continuing to try to wrestle or play. Pauses are only a second or two and that is enough. If you do need to step in and block an over-playful or bigger dog who is overwhelming yours, first you should find out whose dog it is if you can and ask them to call or lead their dog away to give your dog a break. If that isn't possible I suggest you go to your dog and body block the other dog. Be the barrier between your dog and the other dog. This will allow you to form a kind of shield around your dog. Do not pick up your dog. Picking your dog up is an invitation for the other dogs to jump on you, bite at your dog, and your dog basically becomes a toy for the others. Only in emergency situations should you consider picking up your dog as a last resort to offer protection and move it from harm's way. The other dogs may also end up mouthing you and scratching you in attempt to get to your dog and play. You can also try to distract the other dogs away by getting their attention on a ball or toy and throwing it.
 |
| White dog submitting to the black dog, the black dog has a very stiff and dominant posture. woofandwordpress.com |
If your dog is one trying to play with a submissive dog stay near and keep a close eye. Make sure your dog is pausing if the submissive dog yelps. It is ok for your dog to try to initiate play by nuzzling, mouthing, jumping, and wrestling, but if the submissive dog is very overwhelmed you should consider distracting your dog and luring it away to give the submissive dog a break. It is very polite of you to approach the owner of the submissive dog and tell the owner you will have your dog back off if they want. Some owners are not comfortable having dogs wrestle theirs in such a submissive state. If you need your dog to stop, approach calmly (do not chase or run up to the dogs) and gently lure your dog away. Luring is best, but if you need to lead them gently by the collar or scruff that's ok. If the submissive dog shows interest in yours while you are trying to walk away, stop. Let the submissive dog smell yours. At this point it will likely be impossible to keep them separated because they are showing interest in each other and likely want to play with each other. You may wish to tell the other owner that their dog seems to want to play and ask if it's ok to let them play again. Do your best to keep your dog distracted and to let the submissive dog get plenty of "breaks" in the play so it does not become overwhelmed or afraid.
 |
| These 3 huskies, including my two, are "teaming up" on the yellow lab who was spending the majority of the time on her back in a submissive position. Every couple minutes or when the play got rough I would step in to block the huskies and allow the lab puppy to have a break. The lab kept coming back for more and was having a great time! Some dogs prefer to play on their backs. |
5. The Welcoming Committee
Once you are in the park you should try to keep your dog from being part of the "welcoming committee" that gathers at the gate when a new dog arrives. It is for your dog's own safety as well as that of the new dog. As I said, most fights I've seen have been at the gate where dogs are barging in and then feeling instantly overwhelmed. Most often I will not call my dogs away unless there are more than 4 dogs at the gate including mine. Having a couple dogs as a welcoming committee is almost always ok but keep a close eye. I will always call them away if the dog entering the park is dragging their owner up and is out of control as that dog is already in an obsessive and neurotic state of mind and I don't want that being redirected onto my dogs and starting a fight. Once the dog has entered the park I will wait a moment for it to gather itself before releasing mine. Let go of your dog if another dog is approaching so that they can greet each other politely as dogs, and not feel trapped. When my dogs go to the gate I calmly back them up and put them in a Sit-Stay until the other dog has entered.
6. Puppies
Very young puppies under 4 months old should not be brought to dog parks. They are not physically capable of moving around quickly enough and being able to play and keep up with the grown dogs. They are very likely to get hurt. Dog parks are also considered by many to be breeding grounds for disease. It is impossible to know what diseases the other dogs are bringing into the park and puppies are more susceptible. There could be parvo, distemper, or any number of diseases that are passed through feces or saliva. Most dog parks do not allow dogs under 4 months and personally I feel that is an appropriate rule. Puppies are better suited for walks around your neighborhood, puppy classes, or playing with small groups of other puppies.
7. Children
Some children do fine in dog parks and others don't. In general I'd have to say I don't recommend bringing children because of the risks but many children do just fine. Parents need to realize that it is a dog park and that dogs should take priority over children (though keeping everyone safe is absolutely the #1 priority). If the parent chooses to bring their child into the park they are accepting that risk. Children are really fun for most dogs and I have rarely seen problems, but children often don't realize their actions draw attention from the dogs. One thing parents must enforce is do not let your child run around, especially with toys in their hands. Children's hands are the perfect height for dogs to try to grab the toy and they may end up biting your child or knocking your child down in attempt to get the toy. Stay near to your child at all times and keep in mind that if you pick your child up the dogs may see it as an invitation to jump on you, follow you, and try to get the big fun toy in your hand that smells like Cheerios or fish sticks. Same as when dogs are picked up, the child becomes a target and a toy for the dogs. Dogs will jump up on the parent or try to grab at the child's feet, legs, or bum. Before coming into a dog park parents should explain to children how to greet dogs, to ask people before petting their dogs, and what to do if a dog barks at them. Also make sure your kids do not have food all over themselves. This will draw dogs in like a magnet and they'll be licking and slobbering all over your child and won't leave your child alone.
No babies. I personally don't think it's a good idea to bring a baby into a dog park. If you do bring a baby I suggest the baby stays in a stroller where the dogs can't get their noses over the top of it. I strongly advise against front/back carriers or just holding the baby as once again this makes the baby a target and a toy. Babies smell awesome to dogs and it is usually very difficult to keep the dogs away. Babies are also more susceptible to any diseases at the park and dogs can transmit many things to babies. For example a dog who recently had a Bordetella vaccine may give a baby whooping cough. I have seen several infants in strollers who are fine in the dog park, but they have parents who stay close and body block any dogs that try to come near.
8. Playing or Fighting?
For most owners their worst nightmare at the park is a fight. Sometimes play can get very rough and it's tough to tell if the dogs are still playing or if it's turned into a fight. It is important to remember that noise does not mean aggression or fighting. Many dogs bark, growl, snarl, groan, whine, and yip while playing. It can get very noisy and sound awful but still be play. It is also important to know that bared teeth does not mean aggression, and biting or mouthing does not mean aggression. Raised fur does not mean aggression. Denali's fur always goes up when she is playing. You must take the dog's entire body language into account. Dogs play using their mouth and bodies. You know a fight when you hear and see one. If you can't quite tell, it's most likely playing because the sounds and look of a fight is unmistakable. Think about this: Is one dog trying to hurt the other dog? Often in a true fight one dog is doing the attacking while the other is defending itself. For me, the easiest way to tell is to just look at the dogs' bodies. Are they loose and wiggling, giving play bows and other play positions? Or are they stiff, tails stiff and straight out or straight up, chests out, keeping face-to face, legs stiff, snapping at each other, and fighting? Here are some images of common things you'll see in playing.
 |
| Standing up, jumping on each other, and mouthing dog-breeds-spot.com |
 | |||
| Stalking other dogs |
 |
| Play bow! The invitation to play. ask.metafilter.com |
 |
| Mouthing each others necks, ears, or face. Sometimes the dog won't let go for several seconds and may chew gently. hemlockhollowdogtraining.blogspot.com |
Now for aggression. I had a hard time finding good images of true aggression and aggressive postures. Bared teeth is very common but keep in mind some dogs may have closed mouths and not be showing teeth or wrinkling their noses at all. Their mouth will still be tight though.
 |
Notice the ears are flat back and the expression is much more intense and tight than the previous images.
The corners of the mouth are forward. The dog is staring, eyes fixed on the target.doggies.com |
 |
Aggressive body language. Note how the posture is very forward, upright, and stiff.
The tail may be more vertical or closer to horizontal depending on the dog, and may even wag stiffly.This is the same posture you see with dogs who are aggressive on leash when another dog gets too close- they freeze in this position (maybe not with raised hair or curled lips) and stare down their target before lunging. moderndogmagazine.com |
9. Dealing With an Aggressive Dog
If a fight does occur, hopefully both owners are nearby and ready to stop the fight. If your dog is not involved keep your dog from approaching the fight if at all possible. The commotion is likely to draw your dog in. If your dog is involved, act as fast as you possibly can. To break up a fight one of the best ways is to use a dog repellent spray. Most people do not habitually carry dog repellent and have no tools to use but their own bodies. Do not try to grab the dogs by the collars or neck. Do not try to step between the dogs. Do not put your hands or arms anywhere near the dogs' heads. Do not hit, kick, or slap the dogs, including hitting either dog with a leash. Striking the dogs will provoke them. Usually it is one dog attacking the other and the other is trying to defend itself and get away. Grabbing the attacking dog by the back legs and lifting the dog upward is considered one of the safest ways to stop a fight. This may be impossible if the dogs are small or moving too quickly. I have done this a couple times and it IMMEDIATELY causes the dog to focus on you instead of the other dog. A dog's spine is pretty flexible so if you do grab the back legs, be prepared to instantly let go if the dog's head spins back toward you in attempt to bite you. Generally, grabbing any part of the dog and shoving it backward will work and will give you a chance to further restrain the dogs. Denali has been in a couple fights and always been the defending dog. She did a play bow in front of a dog twice her size and the dog instantly attacked her. I broke it up by grabbing Denali by the skin of her back and shoving her backward since it was all I could grab. Even though she was the defendant it still worked. Both owners should be trying to break the dogs up. If your dog is not involved in the fight, your job is to keep your dog out of it and keep yourself and your dog safe. Do not shout, scream, or yell at the dogs. Ultimately I believe in doing whatever necessary to prevent the dogs from injuring each other or locking their jaws down on each other. If you need to use your foot to shove a dog away, do it. Don't kick, but a push with your foot to shove a dog back may needed to get space between them. Her second fight, she was seemingly randomly attacked by a dog as she was walking past it. I grabbed her around the hips and shoved her back behind me and used my foot to push the other dog away.
If your dog was in the fight, after the fight is broken up lead your dog away from the other. Calmly check your dog all over for any bleeding, especially in their mouth on their gums and tongue, their face, ears inside and out, neck, chest, and front legs. Check their armpits and groin too, and feet. Do not make a big deal of it to your dog. You want the dog to move on, not think that the fight was a huge deal. You can create more serious issues by making a big deal of it. It is a big deal for your dog to be in a fight but the dog doesn't need you to baby it or create an even bigger scene. It's not helpful for the dog. Ask the other owner if their dog is ok. Take the dogs to the nearest vet if necessary, and exchange information with the other owner if necessary. If either dog is bleeding at all, you should exchange information to get vet records for proof of vaccinations. If the fight was very serious you may need to contact animal control or the police to do a formal report. If both dogs are fine, I highly suggest the defending dog not leave the park immediately. You want to end on a good note. Once your dog is calm, I suggest running around and playing more for at least a couple minutes before leaving. If you need to, leave the park itself and go for a quick walk around the area. Staying in the park is not always possible, and if your dog is still worked up it is best to leave to prevent further fights. Leaving right after a fight is not a positive experience, however it is sometimes necessary. You should of course leave immediately if veterinary care is required. If your dog was not involved, again you should provide at least a couple minutes of normal fun playtime before leaving unless the fight got your dog worked up, in which case I suggest leaving and going for a short walk.
A dog will not get along perfectly with every single other dog they meet. Think of it like this: No matter how nice of a person you are and how well you get along with most people, there will always be people who you don't like or don't get along with for whatever reason. To me, the same holds true in a dog's world. Do not let a fight discourage you from going back to the park. If your dog was the instigator you may want to seek the advice of a professional trainer to determine if your dog is showing signs of escalating dog aggression or if it was just one of those days when your dog met a dog that it didn't get along with for whatever reason. Keep your eyes open to recognize that dog in the future to avoid another conflict. Do not return to the park if you feel another fight is likely to be caused by your dog, and seek the help of a professional trainer.
If you know that your dog is aggressive toward other dogs do not bring it into the dog park when other dogs are there. You need to work with your dog outside of the dog park and will likely benefit from the knowledge and advice of a professional trainer. I have no problem with aggressive dogs being in dog parks when no other dogs are present. I think it's great for all dogs to get time off leash. If you are there by yourself with your aggressive dog watch for people to be approaching the park and be ready to stop them from coming in so that you can leave first. Stay close enough to the gate that you can stop people and tell them that your dog doesn't get along with other dogs, and to please wait so you can get your dog and you'll leave. It is your responsibility to keep others safe. If you can't do that, do not take your dog to the park. Working with an aggressive dog to overcome their dog aggression is very serious and you should be extremely cautious and work with an experienced trainer. You should NOT simply muzzle an aggressive dog and let it try to play at the park. The dog should not be brought into the park until it has shown it can be around many dogs and not react inappropriately. I cannot stress enough that dealing with aggression is very serious and it is easy to make the issue worse without using proper methods to slowly and gradually work up to the point of bringing your dog to a dog park to play with other dogs. Some dogs may never reach that point. Do not rush it, and do seek the help of a professional.
I want to remind you that the vast majority of the time you will not be experiencing fights or anything bad at all. Dog parks are fun places that give your dog a chance to socialize and play! Continue reading Part 2.
No comments:
Post a Comment